My Lighted Arcade Button Modification (part2)
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  1. #1
    Tech Wizard
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    Default My Lighted Arcade Button Modification (part2)

    ...continued from part(1) *** Techtools, is it possible to merge the 2 posts together so create a flow of photos? *** T


    Now here's the part where you need a steady hand. If you're not good with your hands, get someone who is....
    I used a mini-grinder (or a dremel) to cut a tiny slot 1/4 inch by 3/8 up the two sides of the clear button. This slot is required so that when the button is pushed, it doesn't hit the leds inside...basically a cut-out.
    The button on right shows the button as it comes standard. The button on the left shows the slot.
    Attachment 3629

    Assemble the button back into the housing with the leds installed.
    Attachment 3630

    Ok Now I connect the button to the led leads inside the vci-100. I didn't install the buttons yet so that I could test and make sure the leds worked perfectly. Here's the blue and white.
    Attachment 3631Attachment 3632

    Now All I have to do is make all the buttons and install them.... Haven't done them yet as this was the first prototype. It seems O.K so now I can proceed. Will post the final result in the next couple weeks.

    as for the last photo, I didn't like the cutting of the internal wires and taping them so I went to the electronics shop and picked up a harness I will use to connect the buttons and leds so it looks like it was built that way.
    Attachment 3633

    Anyway, that's it... You can use disco mode (firmware 1.4) and see the lights during juggle mode.

    The leds I got on ebay (the guy who sells 100 and you can mix and match the colors you want). The buttons from lizard lick.

    BC
    Last edited by bcondemi; 10-26-2010 at 07:28 AM.

  2. #2
    Tech Mentor djsakebomb's Avatar
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    That's really nifty!!!
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  3. #3
    DJTT Infectious Moderator photojojo's Avatar
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    Very nice. Do you think that none of the buttons that come with LED's installed would work?
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  4. #4
    Tech Convert Sleeps41's Avatar
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    Excellent writeup bcondemi. Your posting has been a great help. I have just a few questions for you. First, were you able to get the wire link at Radio Shack? Second, how were you able to decipher which wires went to which button, as well as assigning them the blue or white color? Third, did you have to use any resistors so not to blow the led's? Fourth, what did you do to create a ground or negative for the led's? Next, does the led color change when you push down the arcade button, or is it programed in the firmware? And last, could you provide a little bit more info on the led's, such as what wattage, what size, and the link to the vendor? Thanks again and will be looking forward to your final results.
    Last edited by Sleeps41; 10-26-2010 at 06:59 AM. Reason: reworded my question

  5. #5
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    Not sure if the pre-manufactured buttons with led's would work. LEDs/voltage/ can vary and I didn't have the specs for those buttons...Plus 2 colors were required in the buttons. Also the sizes, I wasn't sure if they would work with the overlay's pre designed size/diameter or space requirements. The buttons I used were almost identical to techtools' specs.

    BC

    edit...

    The Vendor on eBay is as follows...
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:RTQ:US:1123

    This guy has been selling leds forever...The specs are listed at the bottom of the auction. Although for the final version, I will get his wide angle leds so the light spread is more even.

    and...the wiring diagram from...another thread here at techtools. I used wires 6,7,8,9,10,11...look further down the post there's an Led circuit diagram kindly posted my another techtools member.(thanks to him).


    http://www.djtechtools.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16638

    The harness, I'm not sure if you can get it at radio shack...they seem to have less and less as the years go by. I got mine from an electronics surplus shop. You can try radio shack or google a surplus shop near you. OR you can solder the connections nice and clean and use shrink tube (from the surplus shop).

    As you can see, I didn't completely remove the original button circuit boards (I still need to use the unit) but made the quick disconnect connections with a harness so that when I get the buttons done, I can quickly reconnect to the new buttons.

    BC
    Last edited by bcondemi; 10-26-2010 at 07:23 AM.

  6. #6
    Tech Convert Sleeps41's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcondemi View Post
    Not sure if they would work. LEDs/voltage/ can vary and I didn't have the specs for those buttons. Also the sizes I wasn't sure if they would work with the overlay's pre designed size/diameter or space requirements. These buttons were almost identical to techtools' specs.

    BC
    Wondering if we could create a hybrid button between djtt buttons and the ones you used since they are nearly identical, this way we get the best of both worlds, reliability, and the awesome glow of led's.

  7. #7

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    wow man great work. inspiring me to try my own...

    couple quick questions.... which wire from the led diagram controls the orange led and which one control the green led? IE is the orange led(the default "always on" state) wire 6 or wire 7? and just to make sure im understanding correctly, wires 8-11 correspond to leds 1-4 in the same manner that wires 2-5 correspond to buttons 1-4, correct? and one last question, does it matter which side of the led (positive/negative) goes to button 6/7 and which side goes to one of the 8-11 wires?

    any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

  8. #8
    Tech Wizard ricoot's Avatar
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    Broken images .

    I forgot to log in...

    Looks awesome, nice job!!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by the shmobletons View Post
    wow man great work. inspiring me to try my own...

    couple quick questions.... which wire from the led diagram controls the orange led and which one control the green led? IE is the orange led(the default "always on" state) wire 6 or wire 7? and just to make sure im understanding correctly, wires 8-11 correspond to leds 1-4 in the same manner that wires 2-5 correspond to buttons 1-4, correct? and one last question, does it matter which side of the led (positive/negative) goes to button 6/7 and which side goes to one of the 8-11 wires?

    any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
    Ok. not to worry... I'm recieving the rest of the buttons this week and the led's next week (I changed them to flat top because they are wide angle and they light up the button evenly). I've started on the tutorial video on how to build your buttons...Which led's to use (wide angle, 3mm, flat top) and how to number all the wires Even if you cut them off from a previous arcade mod. It will be complete..... btw... you don't need any resisters because they are already on the medium sized (where the ic's are) pcb board before they lead out to the small button circuit boards. I'll go through everything.

    I've 'bench-tested' all the leds connected together wired to the vci-100 (both green and blue) those are the colors I have... and everything works perfectly (even Disco mode )

    ...and yes the leds are directional (light emitting DIODE) diodes are directional..

    Patience!!!
    Last edited by bcondemi; 10-28-2010 at 03:24 PM.

  10. #10
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    Default Nice Job Man ... Respect!

    Hey just wanna say nice job on the write-up / vid tutorial. I recently aquired a vci100se via ebay and pondered over this very idea, and low and behold, a quick search through the forums lead me to this thread!!

    I've already modded the vci to include the arcade buttons complete with brand new arcade overlay, damn, that glue is strong on them!! I went with the seimitsu ps-14-dn-k range which are completely translucent - except the plunger inset which is white. I made a boob with the original choice of colour though, originally got the "smoke" colour ones only to find they dont allow enough light through, lol, live and learn eh!

    So re-ordered some clear ones (they list them as "white" though??!!) and awaiting the new buttons & 3mm leds to arrive so I can complete the upgrade.

    One thing I have noticed is the bottom cover of the vci will need to be "altered" as the locking rings on the buttons eat up just a little bit too much space preventing the cover from sliding all the way up as it's meant to.

    Don't know if you had the same issue or not? Just thought i'd point it out for anyone considering this mod. I suppose an alternative is either :-

    1- Use a snap-fit button type (like the sanwa's)

    2- Don't fit the locking rings (glue the buttons in)

    3- File out the required space from the bottom cover lip (wouldn't be visible when re-assembled)

    Even used your idea with the legends for the buttons but I wanted a black type finish so I printed out the labels on photo paper with a black background and white text. I'm hoping the illumination will shine through the unprinted area of the labels (i.e. the text). TIP: when you have the legend positioned just right glue the thing down otherwise when you give it some serious beat juggling (ean golden stylie) the darn thing rotates as seen on my right hand "slice" button ... lmao.

    Also considering illuminating the button outer shell with the green & masking the plunger so only the blue shines through that. Dunno yet, have to test and see.

    Thanks for the great write-up and tutorial though, and to forums/sites like DJTT for the vast amount of time and effort they put in. It's what gives ppl great inspiration to do this stuff.

    Regards & Respect

    All the best
    Last edited by Tech_UK; 03-28-2011 at 10:02 AM.
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