Customized/Refurbed Technics - Worth it?

[Nicadraus]

Wow, those look great. The white with the LEDS looks sooo clean.

I've been thinking about getting into repairing broken TT's for a while now, but didn't know where to start. What mechanical problems do you usually run into with these? How do you go about diagnosing the repair? Are there any problems that just can't be fixed without spending more than the table's worth?

Simple things to look out for are:

Motor:

-Does the platter spin. Spin the platter manually and see if the platter spins continuously without any friction until it stops completely.

-Check the strobe and move the pitch with small increments while checking the dots on the platter. See if the dots are glitching or not.

-Press start and set the pitch control to zero. See if the strobe light flickers while the platter is spinning. If it does, then the drive IC needs to be checked, cleaned and/or replaced.

Tonearm:

1. Check the arm by pulling it back and fort holding it from the tip. Does it shake or vibrate? There shouldn't be any. If there are, then two things may cause it. Either the pivot screws aren't tightened and calibrated or the bearings are not good.

2. Check the swivel of the arm. Remove the counter weight balance and place the tip of the arm on your finger. Then glide it from left to right and try to feel for any resistance. If there are, then either the pivot screws are too tight, or the bearings are not good, or the anti-skate has been touched internally before and wasn't put back properly.

3. Check the height adjuster ring. Unlock it and turn the ring dial and see if the numbers coordinate with the marker as the tonearm raises up and and go down.

4. Check the tonearm contacts by using a multimeter with the RCA tip connectors. There are four pins inside the tonearm tip. Top left is left signal, top right is right signal, bottom left is left ground, bottom right is right ground. The tonearm casing itself is the body grounding.

Pitch:

-Glide the pitch and read the dots. +3.3%, the first row of dots on the platter should be at zero meaning it should look static while the platter is spinning. At +6%, the 2nd row of dots should be at zero. At -3.3% the 4th row (bottom row) of dots should be at zero. If these dots are not in line, then the pitch may be calibrated. But if the pitch makes big jumps with small increment of adjustments, then the pitch may need to be replaced.

RCA contacts:

-Some signals may vary depending on the headshell, cartridge and needle used. You can either check the RCA by playing an actual vinyl on it and checking the meter on the mixer and sound output through your speakers or use a multimeter (please refer to tonearm check #4).

Hope this helps.

[Nicadraus]

That's some pretty cool stuff.

Thanks man!

I remember when you posted those LTDs on DJF, I died a little inside.

[0.0]

Thanks a bunch. Your advice is much appreciated.

[Nicadraus]

Gorgeous work- I hope to get to that level.

I think I asked you before but what paint do you use?

I am going to need to repaint some decks so any tips? In the past I always just cleaned tables up really well but I have some now that could use paint. I don't have access to a shop or anything so this will all be done on my balcony and I would prefer to use spray cans.

Are there any really good automative type spray paints you would recommend?

What about buffing?

I used to buy spray rattle cans but they eventually turn out to be more expensive and the colors are very limited. Automotive paints from cans are better as you can mix the shades you want, thin the paint yourself depending on how many layers or coats you want to apply. I use automotive polyurethane paints such as PPG, DuPont and Anzahl. PPG is a pain to use but if done correctly, the results are amazing. Anzahl is the easiest to work with with nice results. Anzahl is also the cheapest.

I do buff the decks after wet sanding the top coat once it's completely dried. I use an industry standard buffing machine (Makita 9227C) with buffing foam pads and Adam's Polishes products.

[Nicadraus]

Im loving the whites, gorgeous clean lines.

Im planning on doing a bit of house keeping on my techs myself. How much pain is the tonearm to dis-assemble/re-assemble and re-calibrate?

I'd love to attempt a paint job by myself but it might be easier (and WAY faster) for a bodyshop to do it. The only thing that puts me off is the tonearm assembly.

Well to be honest, the tonearm is the trickiest of them all. It took me almost two years to master every bit of it. Putting the adjuster ring alone has a technique that not all can do. There are six ways to put it back but only one is the proper way. The calibration of the pivot screws for the swing and swivel is another thing. The soldering of the tiny wires on to the toearm PCB. The toearm lever adjuster, antiskate reload spring, the setting plate, and much more to consider. But if you're up for it, hit me with a PM or send me your yahoo ID so we can chat or talk while guiding you.

[Flash101uk]

But if you're up for it, hit me with a PM or send me your yahoo ID so we can chat or talk while guiding you.

Thanks very much for the offer man , But considering what youve said, I might just leave it for the professionals! I'd rather not screw up my beloved techs.

Ive been searching for a beat up one at a bargain price to mess about with, but no joy.

I do plan on sorting the RCA's and installing some underplatter lighting soon though. Once ive decided which cable's good for the job!

[Xonetacular]

I do plan on sorting the RCA's and installing some underplatter lighting soon though. Once ive decided which cable's good for the job!

I still haven't picked RCA cables...

I'm thinking of just using the same type off wire as the stock RCA cable and putting nice connectors on, then maybe sleeving them.

[Flash101uk]

I still haven't picked RCA cables...

I'm thinking of just using the same type off wire as the stock RCA cable and putting nice connectors on, then maybe sleeving them.

I ended up going for these:

http://www.htfr.com/p/375427/signal_...o_high_quality

Not the highest of quality or price tags, but Ive used a pair of them for a while now and theyre good cables with good quality phono plugs that sit nicely in my audio 8. Theyre also comparable in thickness to the standard cable, so should fit nicely in the clip.

[Xonetacular]

Cool let me know how they fit.

nicadraus- what do you use to scrape the paint off everything? Do you just do that by hand with sandpaper?

[Nicadraus]

Cool let me know how they fit.

nicadraus- what do you use to scrape the paint off everything? Do you just do that by hand with sandpaper?

Yes I do sand it all the way down with a 400cc grit waterproof sandpaper. Let little water run while sanding it down. Paint stripper doesn't work on the primer that Technics used. You can also use a sand blasting machine. Works better, faster and no need to primer the frame when it's sand blasted. The paint works well with sand blasted metal especially with diecast aluminum and magnesium.