44-7's
Everyone is mostly recommending the shure m44-7s.
old djtt post! http://www.djtechtools.com/2010/05/1...ue-comparison/
I just bought a pair of 2nd hand stanton st150s that came with the original used stanton 680v3 hp carts. I think the needles are wrecked, 1 cantilever seems to have a crack on it.
Should i just get new 680v3 eliptical styli, or go for new m44-7 carts?
2 x Technics 1210 / 2 x Stanton ST150 / Shure M44-7 / Kontrol S4 / KRK Rokit 5 / AIAIAI TM-1 / Westone 1 / HP dv6-6105TX
I've used ortofons but prefer the m44-7s for both timecode and real vinyl. Cheaper too, can't go wrong.
“A composer is a guy who goes around forcing his will on unsuspecting air molecules, often with the assistance of unsuspecting musicians.”
SSD Dual drive MBP, VCI100SE, 2 MF's, Audio 8, Echo Audiofire 2, 2x1200's, CDJ800s, Novation Twitch, XoneS2, X1, tons of PA Gear.
I never really came back here to update. I went with the shure's, which is what I had in mind and everybody else reinforced. Everything is just peachy keen and I haven't looked back since. I just wish I had more time to play with the new tables.
A&H Xone 62, 2 x X1's, A6, Sony MDR V-700's
2 x Technics 1210 / 2 x Stanton ST150 / Shure M44-7 / Kontrol S4 / KRK Rokit 5 / AIAIAI TM-1 / Westone 1 / HP dv6-6105TX
A&H Xone 62, 2 x X1's, A6, Sony MDR V-700's
Set them as per the instructions and everything is fine, with two exceptions.
1 - You should use as little tracking force as you can get away with. IME, the "recommended maximum" is more than enough. Don't do anything dumb like adding extra weight to the headshell or turning the counterweight around……all it does is make things sound worse and ruin needles and records faster.
2 - The anti-skate adjustment has never been correct according to the numbers on any table I've used. The correct way to set it is to get a record with nothing printed on it (at least on one side), put it on the turntable and put the needle on it (while it's spinning). Keep an eye on it so it doesn't jump completely off the record, and then just play with the anti-skate knob until it stays put towards the middle of the record. If you're scratching heavily, back it off just a bit from there (lower number).
If you can't get the record to stop skipping like that, then there are like 3 common causes: you didn't level the turntable properly (with a $4 circular bubble level), your tonearm bearings are messed up, or you just plain can't scratch and need a lot more practice……which I think you should do with the cheapest carts you can find………at least until you get to the point you're not skipping all over the damn place.
I recently bought some M44-7's and I find them great, very durable, relatively cheap and the little flip down plastic styli protector is great for that extra bit of protection. Agreed about dust accumulation though I used to have stanton 680v3 hp's and they gathered much less dust, but they aren't good for scratching IMO.
I recently got the Ortofon Concorde Scratches and they are really really cool.
Compared to the Ortofon Concorde Electro's that I also have, the Scratch skips much less.
Haven't been able to get it to skip yet actually.
Never used the M44-7's, so no comment there.
APC80:STR8-100's+Ortofon Concorde Scratch\Electro:ButterRugz:TSP2-NI Audio4DJ:Xone22+Innofader:MacBook Pro 15"
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sarasin are those the pink ones? I have a pair of those that I bought years ago. They sound fantastic but they definitely cause more record wear than the shures. I noticed it immediately when back cueing and scratching with a really old (and thin) record; even a couple times back and forth with the stylus and I noticed more pops and fuzz. So keep an eye on things if you make that your standard cart.
(Oh yeah I should add that mine were not Concorde style, if it makes a difference)
"Art is what you can get away with." - Marshall McLuhan
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