*BUILD LOG* 'CDJ 2000'-style DIY Traktor controller

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Is that a double sided board? Assuming you did it at home; very very nicely done... I've nailed down single sided boards, but I'm a little wary of trying double sided, any tricks?

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Yep sure is! :) A lot of what I learnt about sensors and PCB construction was information borrowed from our fellow geek friends, the robot builders.

This guy has some wicked stuff to read...

http://www.robotroom.com/

and here is the double sided board section...

http://www.robotroom.com/PCB2.html

its where I got all the tips on building PCBs including double-sided. Patience and care is the key to getting it right and a drill-press is an absolute must! I also ignored all that stuff you read online about using tungsten carbide drills with FR4, HSS is fine for one off boards, in my opinion your more likely to break a tungsten carbide drill bit before you wear out a HSS when making home brew pcbs! I used a 0.6mm drill bit for most of this board, it took me the better part of a day to drill the thing and my HSS drill bit was still going strong at the end of it!

90 - 95% of the (extremely fine!) traces came out absolutely fine because I scrubbed the board with wire wool first, then cleaned it with surgical spirit and wore rubber gloves while cleaning and applying the transfer (P-n-p blue) to avoid finger prints. For the few areas that did not quite make a connection, I used a Sharpie fine tip permanent marker to touch up before etching.

http://www.btinternet.com/~pogden/si...pcb_double.jpg

This place is amazing sometimes - there can't be anywhere else on the internet that is taking what you can do with Traktor to such an extreme and advanced level. Infact, often when I'm researching for info on various DIY midi controller sites via google, djtechtools is nearly always at the top of the google results.

With that in mind, and trying to keep things as organised as possible; would you mind starting a new thread for all this information? I don't mind it being posted in here but it might get lost if anyone tries to search for info about arduino's and lcd displays.

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Originally Posted by MiL0

This place is amazing sometimes - there can't be anywhere else on the internet that is taking what you can do with Traktor to such an extreme and advanced level. Infact, often when I'm researching for info on various DIY midi controller sites via google, djtechtools is nearly always at the top of the google results.

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yep :)

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Originally Posted by MiL0

With that in mind, and trying to keep things as organised as possible; would you mind starting a new thread for all this information? I don't mind it being posted in here but it might get lost if anyone tries to search for info about arduino's and lcd displays.

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Done :)

http://www.djtechtools.com/forum/sho...372#post268372

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Originally Posted by MiL0

This place is amazing sometimes - there can't be anywhere else on the internet that is taking what you can do with Traktor to such an extreme and advanced level. Infact, often when I'm researching for info on various DIY midi controller sites via google, djtechtools is nearly always at the top of the google results.

With that in mind, and trying to keep things as organised as possible; would you mind starting a new thread for all this information? I don't mind it being posted in here but it might get lost if anyone tries to search for info about arduino's and lcd displays.

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I 2nd that some very extremely smart and intelligent on this forum i love coming into this section and reading new posts:)

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Originally Posted by michaeldunne109

Nice find way better than hacking apart an old laptop keyboard!

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Ever looked at RS?

I've been buying from them for years, they always have what I want. Ok, I build mostly amps and pre-amps, but they have a vast array of components other than semiconductors, incl displays and switches. But I must admit, they're not the cheapest, but defo high quality.

Edit: Forgot the link: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/home.html

Not to jump into this thread super late but as far as the programing goes have you ever looked into the teensy? You can program it using the same IDE as the arduino however it has way more inputs and can do stright midi-usb. I have a midi fighter clone i made with the teensy that does stright midi-usb. If you want a look at the code lemmie know and i'll post it. I modded it for the teensy off a code from instructables. It does a great job with buttons and knobs/faders and all works on a plug and play on any computer with no added drivers.

how do you get more inputs than an Arduino Mega? Are you using a multiplexer?

I've got a couple of these:

http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8970

would it be reasonably straightforward to use your code with a mux? (thanks for posting the code in the other thread btw :))

Hi guys,
the arduino board helps a lot.
digital/analog mux: (they are really cheap)
http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Learning/4051
Or analog mux:
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9056
Or even Encoders:
http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Main/RotaryEncoders

I'm also using the teensy++ but i'm still working on the programming, trying to get the multiplexer running.
My plan is to use some 9056 boards for the analog inputs and some 4051 for the digital and some MAX7219 chips for the LEDs.
http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_Matrix.html

Bye

the teensy++ just has more inputs lol i believe all together it has 28 digital and 8 analog. So you can get the 28 digital and 8 analog without any additional hardware. plus it is soooo much smaller then a mega.

as far as the mux goes it should be reasonably straight forward to add the code to make them work, but you really only need them for the analog. if you hook it up as a matrix you could get 196 buttons hooked up on the 28 pins.

On the arduino forum there is a pretty good guide to using that mux.

http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/...num=1257035971

It seems pretty straight forward. You would then take the new analog inputs names and input them in the code where the analog inputs go. and change the number of inputs

Code:

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// Number of digital inputs. Can be anywhere from 0 to 18.
#define NUM_DI 12
// Number of analogue inputs. Can be anywhere from 0 to 6.
#define NUM_AI 14

#ifdef MIDI_FIGHTER
  #define MIDI_CHANNEL 3
  // First note, starting from lower left button
  #define NOTE NOTE_C2
  // When mapping to a MIDI Fighter we need to skip a row of buttons. Set this from 0-3 to define which row to skip.
  // Rows are ordered from bottom to top (same as the MIDI Fighter's button layout).
  #define SKIP_ROW 2
  // This pin order corresponds to the bottom left button being zero, increasing by one as we move from left to right, bottom to top
  // 8  9 10 11
  // 4  5  6  7
  // 0  1  2  3
  // This array size must match NUM_DI above.
  #define DIGITAL_PIN_ORDER 10, 11, 12, 13, 6, 7, 8, 9, 2, 3, 4, 5
#else
  #define MIDI_CHANNEL 1
  // First note, starting from upper left button
  #define NOTE NOTE_C0
  // This pin order corresponds to the top left button being zero, increasing by one as we move from left to right, top to bottom
  // 0  1  2  3
  // 4  5  6  7
  // 8  9  10 11
  // This array size must match NUM_DI above.
  #define DIGITAL_PIN_ORDER PIN_D0, PIN_D1, PIN_D4, PIN_D5, PIN_D7, PIN_E0, PIN_E1, PIN_C0, PIN_C1, PIN_B3, PIN_B2, PIN_B1
//  #define DIGITAL_PIN_ORDER 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53
#endif

#define ANALOGUE_PIN_ORDER A0, A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, A6, aval1, aval2, aval3, aval4, aval5, aval6, aval7, aval8

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I underlined and bolded the changes, also if you use any of the digital inputs listed in the code for the mux make sure to take them out of the code. So theoretically if you use those changes and add the code from the arduino forum it should work just fine.

I've never used a mux before so i could be wrong, but I just ordered some of those boards so in a few days ill try it out so i can help further if you need it.

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I'm also using the teensy++ but i'm still working on the programming, trying to get the multiplexer running.

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Here is a bit of Arduino MUX code you may be interested in :) First add these two variables to the top of your code...

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int mplex_pins[3] = {9, 10, 11};
byte mplex_mask = 1; 


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The numbers 9, 10, 11 represent the control inputs A, B, C on the MUX. Change these to whatever pin numbers you want to connect your MUX too.

Then add this subroutine to your code...

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void multiplex(byte mp_number) {
  
  int x = 0;
 
  for (mplex_mask = 00000001; mplex_mask > 0; mplex_mask <<= 1){
    
    if (x < 3){
    if (mp_number & mplex_mask){
      digitalWrite((mplex_pins[x]), HIGH);

    } else {
      digitalWrite((mplex_pins[x]), LOW);

    }
   
  }

  x++;
  
  }

  x = 0;
  
} 


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Now you can use the following line of code to switch your MUX to any desired pin anywhere in your code, where x is the pin number 0 - 7...

multiplex(x);

This code will work fine for scanning switches or pots but to multiplex LEDs I find its not quite quick enough and they flicker a bit. I use a more advanced technique for switching the control inputs called port manipulation...

http://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/PortManipulation