very cool idea
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very cool idea
Count me in too. My skills include, umm, drinking beer and receiving lap dances.
This.Quote:
Originally Posted by djproben
I do an excellent boilling water!
Hows progress going dude?
I've pretty much got all the parts I need now - just waiting for the Arduino to arrive so I can start programming.
I'm considering designing a more mixer-focused midi controller instead of two cdj style controllers... mainly so I don't have to make two controllers! (but also so that I can just use one usb lcd screen, to save on costs)
Awesome- I can't Wait to see this badboy coming together!
I am currently plannning a mixer based controller, but would love to include a jog wheel or jog wheels- what would you use for these? As there doesn't appear to be appropriate components around for this sort of thing, only pots and faders etc.
almost got the clone software working now - starting to become semi-useful lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWzuOBDuAdg
I'm working on an entirely new layout which will be much more mixer-focused and less cdj-tentric (so unlike the original design). I'm calling this controller the Traktor Koncept as I hope NI will take some of my ideas on board when they see it all running! Will upload some designs in the next few days.
I'm still waiting for a load of parts to arrive that I ordered last week. Most importantly, I badly need the digital calliper to arrive so I can accurately measure everything and make sure I design the front plate properly (so that the holes are big enough etc).
Seems like a MIDI-Fighter, but you're just re-mapping everything for your ease of usage :o. I like the way the tracks show up though on the separate screen, it'll be easy to quickly check your BPM n stuff.
Want software to map HID input devices(external keyboards) to custom midi events?
At the moment the HID device (numpad keyboard) is just outputting standard qwerty keyboard data. But, the software I've designed also supports midi output. It's written in Autohotkey. I'll upload the source and exe once it's finished.Quote:
Originally Posted by ToS
hmm, well I guess you could call a numpad a bit 'like a MIDI-Fighter' but that's before it's been hacked up! (I'm only using the numpad circuit board as a HID brain). Think of the LCD screen as one small part of this project - a bit like the LCD screens on NI's Machine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldfuzion
some more bits arrived today.... just waiting for the encoders and leds...
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2332524_n.jpg
aaaaand another video! this one explains the concept (or should I say "Koncept") behind the FX section and how the encoders control what's directly below/above them on the screen. Check it out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvrU1USThRc
This is amazing. Please remain focused and finish this project!!
Alot of work done. But alot of work ahead. Good Luck:) keep us posted please. This looks amazing.
A couple of quick tips for your pots. It's possible to break the annoying little tabs on the pots by using a pair of pliers. Just give the tab a little twist at the base and it should snap off flush. Don't worry about the pots turning too much in the case, most of them come with a spring washer which compresses once tightened and stops the pot from turning.
When soldering the pots it's possible to put the cables in to the little holes above the posts and solder by filling in the hole. Just make sure to cut any lengths of wire which go through the back and may touch any part of the case (or any other conductive part).
I'm really impressed with how you're going about this, keep up the good work and you'll get your reward.
ah nice one Archie - I just tried snipping the little tab off with a pair of leatherman pliers and it came off really easily! I was thinking that it didn't matter if I had to make the little holes in the perspex as I'm planning to put a sheet of adhesive printed/cut plastic on top (with all the controls printed in text) so it would cover up any screw heads, scratches and/or excessive holes. Not having to make the holes will certainly be a lot easier when it comes to the real thing! (although I'm considering getting the face cut professionally).
yeah I thought that was possible but thanks for confirming - think it'll definitely be easier than soldering wires to pin headers... I'm thinking about using the breadboard jumper cables I've got to solder into the potentiometer holes - you think that'd work?
and thanks for the encouragement - it might take me the rest of this year but I'm not going to give up! (also, I've spend a fair old amount of cash now... be stupid to stop!)
I would avoid doing this as it can damage the pots. its easier to bend the posts into a circle and solder thatQuote:
Originally Posted by Archies'bald
Just been through the thread end to end...
Very interesting build MiL0, going to keep an eye on this.
I've soldered using those 'holes' dozens of times without issue. I am assuming that you are referring to these holes:
http://i.imgur.com/uuD7Wl.jpg
can you explain that a little better? into a circle? do you mean the solder lugs or the holes above them?Quote:
Originally Posted by DjSweekUh
I think he is referring to the following type of solder post:
http://i.imgur.com/enO2xl.jpg
In which you would do the following:
http://i.imgur.com/C1hkyl.jpg
Wouldnt that make it more difficult?
Still watching this with great interest and dont worry you will get used to soldering very fast just make sure its not blobby and messy.
Just picked up this topic... keep going fella, its nice to see something different :D
Curling the post? Yeah it likely would...Quote:
Originally Posted by marTTyn
Once you get the hand of soldering, it's not that much of a pain to solder the solid post style (as opposed to having a hole in the post). The best tip I can give is to strip about a half inch of wire and wrap it into a loop, slip it over the post and solder while holding the wire in place (one handed).
The 'trick' to how I solder with one hand is to use flux. Flux is solder's friend. It doesn't matter how clean the parts look to you, they're filthy as far as solder is concerned. Flux is used to clean the surfaces that are going to be soldered together. Which is why most electronics solder has a tiny bit of it inside the solder. However if you gather a blob of solder on the tip of your iron you end up burning all the flux away, so there is nothing to help clean the surfaces.
I bought a small bottle (125ml) and transfered about half of it into a squeeze bottle with a needle tip (I've only used about half of the squeeze bottle in about a year). Get your wire in place and put a few drops of flux over the post and wire (that you've curled into a ring and slipped over the post). Then just gather a small blob of solder on your iron's tip and apply to the wire and post. The flux will boil off and clean the post and wire. The neatest part is that the solder will wick into the gaps all by its self :)
There is plenty of videos online about it, but if there is interest I can put one together highlighting the components we would use the most.
Looking mint Milo, real nice work :D
Where'd you get the caps for the pots though? I've been looking all over for some decent caps, but no luck.
Can't wait for the next update :D
still really excited about this project,
was wondering, are you planning to have the Arduino outputting midi directly via USB, via a midi shield or are you going to use software on the computer to convert the serial output to midi?
I'm going to install a midi connector directly to the arduino (so pretty much like using the midi shield).
Got an exciting new addition to this controller that I'm developing at the moment... something pretty unique; more news soon! :D
ok cool, yea till i can work out how to reprogram the Atmega on the actual arduino (somethings thats probably not going to happen anytime soon!) im currently using a software repatch but thinking of heading the hardwired midi route
and excited to hear more!!
caps are from here:Quote:
Originally Posted by safefire
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...T#ht_812wt_906
delivered from China but took less than a week to arrive :)
they fit really perfectly on to these pots:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Linear-Potenti...item2561c52f44
Just to clarify this statement... Only the arduino UNO's are capable of (reasonably simple) usb->midi.. as instead of an FTDI serial to usb chip, they are using a dedicated atmega8 for the same function. Since the atmega8 is just a smaller version of the atmega328 used for the arudino, you can re-program it for your own purposes. (using LUFA).. Doing so will eliminate your ability to reprogram the main atmega chip, so you would have to remove it and program it off-board...Quote:
Originally Posted by etch
In my opinion, the best (and most versatile) method would be to embed a [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Converter-Music-Keyboard-Window/dp/B0017H4EBG"]Amazon.com: USB MIDI Cable Converter PC to Music Keyboard Window Win Vista XP, Mac OS: Electronics@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31l6n6mRLyL.@@AMEPARAM@@31l6n6mRLyL[/ame] usb-serial adapter directly into the project. Just open it up, hack off the cables and wire it right in... BAM! instant usb-midi.... This leaves you the ability to reprogram the arduino with minimal effort.
that's exactly what I'm doing :) - don't really see the problem with making the Arduino a midi device... it actually makes things easier if you're using various other midi devices in the case, as I am (Highly Liquid CPU, Arduino, etc)
Here's the latest draft:
http://gyazo.com/61ff72f9924ea628f5e88405b004a1bc.png
Front Panel Designer tells me it's going to cost 100 euros including VAT to get it cut (2.5mm raw aluminium - gonna get an adhesive printed sticker to go on top to give it a nice finish). I might hunt around for a better price lol...
The biggest difference between using an off-board midi-usb to reprogramming the onboard programmer would be the lack of programming ability after words...
The arduino UNO's have a dedicated atmega chip that handles serial to usb conversion and the programming of the main chip. If you reprogram it to function as a usb->midi converter, you lose all of it's programming abilities. So if you wanted (or needed) to change the code for your midi project, you would have no choice but to remove the main chip and program it externally...
If you use the external adapter, you kind of get the best of both worlds... usb-midi, AND the ability to reprogram the main chip.
exactly!
also, you can daisychain multiple midi devices together inside the case and they will appear as one usb device to your pc/mac... much neater and less programming :)
This is also an interesting alternative, i was going for hardwiring a midi port to the arduino because i already play out with a Audio8 so have the availability of MIDI and it minimises the number of USB ports required for my setup,Quote:
Originally Posted by DjNecro
but im pretty sure that by connecting a hardware bridge on the underside of the chip you can use the onboard ICSP header to directly access the ATmega8, and by desoldering this bridge you can then use the ICSP to access the ATmega328
the main reason for doing so is purely a point of personal interest,
but this is something that hadnt occured to me!Quote:
Originally Posted by MiL0
Or instead of daisy chaining, you could use a powered usb hub instead of chaining midi...
You CAN do direct midi from the arduino's hardware serial interface... That's the method I'm using right now... you just have to disconnect (install a switch, or ICSP) the midi-in circuit when you are programming the 328...Quote:
Originally Posted by etch
There's a couple midi libraries out there, the one I'm using (http://timothytwillman.com/itp_blog/?page_id=240) is a little odd when dealing with midi in, but that oddness allows for great flexibility and efficiency...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6bIH_IvZNM
would appreciate some feedback regarding the placement of buttons near the filter controls for each deck... probably got enough room for 4-5 buttons per channel... obviously I need 'cue' and sync buttons but what else?