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have a buddies lpd8, trying to use it for effects in traktor scratch, but the usb port is broken off. the port itself is in good shape, just broken off its mounting points on the board. when that happened, it pulled up the solder pads on the board as well. is this fixable, or is the board trashed?
Exact same thing happened to my pad. I suspect the kids knocked it over and it landed on the usb jack while a cord was plugged in. I had a friend of mine who's good at soldering take a look and he found that there's no way to get the plug back on. He actually ended up tracing the contacts back to somewhere else on the board and soldered a new usb cord on there. I don't know anything about soldering but let me know if you want me to crack it open and take a picture for reference.
that'd b awesome if you could without damaging anything. i was going to just borrow it until it turned out to be broken today, if I could fix it maybe he'd just let me have it, and i get a controller for the price of solder :P
did your friend solder a new port on, or did he solder the port on inside and then solder the cord to the port permanently?
I snapped some pics last night with my phone. I got as close as I could so hopefully this helps you some
http://i54.tinypic.com/9bdq35.jpg
http://i52.tinypic.com/wiv98m.jpg
http://i53.tinypic.com/4gqd6b.jpg
http://i55.tinypic.com/5nmzci.jpg
ooo boy. time to put my novice soldering skills to the test...good thing there's no loss other than a an old 3 ft usb cord if I totally screw it up.
I really hope it doesn't blow up my computer when I try this
fit a powered usb hub in between for testing purpose... worst case you'll blow the hub or it's powert supply.
And it's doable, I did it a couple of times. You just need some patience and tiny wires ;)
I killed an LPD8 recently... all the pots don't work anymore (but the buttons do). I've got no idea what I did but I've tried everything to get it working again :(
It sounds like there's no longer +5V (or else voltage) on your pots then. If you know how to use a multimeter, measure the DC voltage accross the POT, the first and the third pin. Should be at least 3.3v. If there's nothing there... you need to find where the power fail, could be a simple open-circuit ferrite bead, or a broken circuit trace.
I did that already - there's definitely current passing through the pots... I think it's a problem elsewhere on the board...
alright found my iron and some solder. can anyone confirm that gnd and vbus are soldered to either side of the small tan box there (on mine its black and says "100 10V")
and that D- and D+ are soldered to R1 and R2 respectively?
thanks
I can't see the photos large enough on my blackberry, but check if any of the points that pulled off of the board have not lifted up. You are looking for a copper pad that has been separated from the circuit board. If you have any that are lifted, current may still pass through, but not correctly. Hopefully you can't find any lifted pads, if you do, you can't fix them...
the pads from the usb port? those have lifted up, but I'm not trying to replace the port. I'm trying to hardwire a usb cord to the board, like djheir's friend did for his lpd8 (at least it looks like it's hardwired. just double checking which points he soldered each cable (vbus, d+, d-, ground) to.
Hello,Quote:
Originally Posted by paw_20
I had the same problem that Paw_20 and so I decided to solder a USB cable on the board like showed on the pictures of DjHeit.
I was really helped by this pictures altough they are not so clear.
So yes, when you look at the board in front of you, you have to solder
the black cable on the left of the little black box
the red cable on the right of the little black box
the white cable on the left of the R1 resistor
the green cable on the left of the R2 resistor
To prevent that the cable is teared off and "desolderised", I sticked it on the PCB with super-glue and tighted a tyrap around the cable just before the ex-usb-port hole for it doesn't cross the hole.
So I would like to thank everybody here and hope this will help many in the future.
Sorry to revive a dead topic, but I've had this exact same problem after only owning my LPD8 for a grand total of 3 weeks. Akai customer service have responded with a giant foxtrot oscar, and so I'm left to repair it myself, which isn't a problem since I have all the tools and skills needed to do it. However, the pictures don#t show clearly what the white and green wires are going on to. At first I thought white was going to R1, and Green to R3, but then it looks like white is bridging R1 and R2 and green is bridging R2 and R1. But then the post above says the green cable goes on R2. But it definitely looks it's soldered to R3 on the picture. Can anyone shed some light?
(Last time I buy an Akai product, second I've owned, second that's broke within two months of light usage! They need to sort out their quality control department)
Hello,
I repaired mine just a bit more than a month ago but yet forgot the right places for cables. I'll take a look tonight. If I forget to do, just re-post in a couple of days.
But I guess that if I wrote for everybody that:
"the white cable on the left of the R1 resistor
the green cable on the left of the R2 resistor"
... it must be what I did. And the device work perfectly.
Don't worry to much with the fact you don't feel quiet about doing it by yourself. Because of two things:
- if you don't try to fix it, your device is still good enough for one thing: land on the trash. So you don't have nothing to lose (no more). Really.
- and it's not as difficult as it can seem. I allow myself saying that because it was for me the first time I soldered as thin. And I was really surprised when I plugged the device and it lights up. You just need to be calm and don't try to go too fast: prepare everything you need, take space enough, take your time, breathe, and it will be alright.
Note: you really need a good soldering iron (warm between 230°C and 300°C and thin tip) and a thin soldering wire. I'll give you references of mine tonight.
About Akai product quality, I own a Korg Nano (the one with faders), and for me the "potentiometer" of the LPD8 are so much better at use than the Korg's.
Such a shame that this otherwise excellent device is spoilt by a simple design flaw. The USB connector is fixed to the mother board by the most tenuous of connections and snaps off with the slightest out-of-line force. It is officially un-repairable - ruined by something which would have cost nothing to manufacture properly in the first place. One hates to think this kind of thing is deliberate, but surely any kind of field testing would have shown up this problem. Another electronic device consigned to the trash can for no good reason.
Many years later... I just repaired mine using this thread, the pictures and the wire landings described (using very crude soldering tools). Thanks again to those who provided the info for repairing!
Same here. Thank you guys so much. It was my first time soldering something so thin and tiny as well. First time repairing anything actually. I can't believe it worked! So happy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrpresso
Hi there, I'm in the same situation today, unfortunately the pictures are no more available.
where do i have to connect the red wire: FB1? and the black one CN3?
thanks