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  1. #41
    Tech Mentor JelaniRobot's Avatar
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    Sorry, I don't have one. But I just got my 30mm buttons in the mail, they are way to big lol. Looks like I'mma have to cut. I used the 30mm to start to make a DIY MIDI Controller though so It's not a total waste.

  2. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by JelaniRobot View Post
    Sorry, I don't have one. But I just got my 30mm buttons in the mail, they are way to big lol. Looks like I'mma have to cut. I used the 30mm to start to make a DIY MIDI Controller though so It's not a total waste.
    Yeah I switched to 24mm and still had to cut.

  3. #43
    Tech Guru jakeintox's Avatar
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    I'll try to snag a multimeter from my boss in the next few days.

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  4. #44

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    Ok I think the biggest help I could use is can someone snap a picture of the bottom of the PCB. I need both front and back of both Decks 1 and 2. Just the area below the jog wheel. In the highest quality you can. I have to do some wire tracing/reverse engineering with the pictures. I almost got it to the point where I can completely cut off the bottom half.

    Thanks guys. Also I sent this thread to the guys at Numark. I imagine they have to be enthused that Vestax won't be having all the fun.

  5. #45
    Tech Guru jakeintox's Avatar
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    For lact of a better camera I snapped these on my phone. If they're not useable I'll borrow my roomie's camera tomorrow and try again.

    left deck bottom


    right deck bottom


    left deck top


    right deck top
    Last edited by jakeintox; 03-09-2010 at 02:01 AM.

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  6. #46
    Tech Guru jakeintox's Avatar
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    That's at least the correct ares, right? Upon viewing these I will def take better pics tomorrow.

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  7. #47

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    Hmmmm actually it looks like the PCB architecture is pretty different between the Total Control and the Stealth. Although they do use the same components. Basically what I'm running into is a "Ghosting" problem. It happens when you have a large matrix of keys. Without the proper diodes you being they begin to step on each other. Heres an Example

    When I press the button for midi value 90 54 7F I get just that

    But when I press 90 4C 7F I get an output of 90 4C 7F and 90 54 7F. It's ghosting a second key

    And then try 90 44 7F, I get 90 44 7F; 90 4C 7F; 90 54 7F Now its ghosting two keys

    90 3C 7F = 90 3C 7F; 90 44 7F; 90 4C 7F; 90 54 7F Ghosting three keys

    And lastly key 90 33 7F produces 90 33 7F;90 3C 7F; 90 44 7F; 90 4C 7F; 90 54 7F

    Thats four keys Ghosted.

    Now I cant seem to figure out why this is happening. The only thing thats not an OEM solder point is the leads for keys 3C, 44, and 4C AKA the bottom three buttons, each of these had a diode on them which I reproduced, but I still find it funny that they would act this way. It's like when I press a button it closes the buttons behind it but not the ones in front of it. Pretty weird.
    http://www.numark.com/images/logo.gif

  8. #48

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    Better yet, here's a picture of what MidiOX is saying its outputting along with the corresponding buttons that are being pressed.

    http://www.numark.com/images/logo.gif

  9. #49
    Tech Guru jakeintox's Avatar
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    Yikes! I understand the "ghosting" problem, but this is quickly beginning to surpass my knowledge!

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  10. #50

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    Yeah the confusing thing is the way the keys stack. Almost as if its not a true "ghosting" problem.....

    I would be interested to see what the input voltage is on each of those buttons on an original stealth or totalC. Might give some clues.
    http://www.numark.com/images/logo.gif

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