Any chance of him posting a how-to video or you guys released a special edition DIY with a joystick system included? I love how it looks and sounds, plus it just adds to the feel of it being a fight stick.
Any chance of him posting a how-to video or you guys released a special edition DIY with a joystick system included? I love how it looks and sounds, plus it just adds to the feel of it being a fight stick.
Yea.. a bag full of all the parts would be great. Or maybe some links to a good place to get the sticks.
That was one of a batch of 8 original midifighters I made for myself and a few members of this forum.
http://www.djtechtools.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54
The case is the hard part to replicate as each one took several hours of machining to get to the right size.
The joysticks I raxed from some PS2 controllers I got for cheap on a auction site however you can now buy them individually from many stores.
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/pro...oducts_id=9032
The four buttons on the top left are page buttons which change the notes of the 16 arcade buttons.
Because we included an expansion port in the MF MK1 kits you can replicate these original midifighters with the MF MK1 kits by buying two joysticks, four panel mount push buttons and making your own badass case.
thanks for the info, from the video I saw on gamesetwatch I thought they were actual joysticks (since the vid is straight down). What made you choose to use PS2 analog sticks? is it cause they are less cumbersome and have an extra button?
I was actually thinking it'd be sweet to try and mod the thing to work as a FightStick for mame or street fighter IV on the PC when not being used for more creative purposes :P
@midifidler
I just ordered three joysticks. (From playstation experience I've had controllers where one stick was better than the other)... Ok, so I take the 2 best and then what... I have soldering experience, and I even have basic diy build skills (building passive mixers and shit like that). But I am at a loss here as to what to hook to what. I have a while before those sticks get here. Any insight...
Also, by the way, I want to personally thank you for your creation. I love it. It feels so much better than pounding out pads. I've gotten so many questions about it. It's definitely a quality piece of equipment and looks good doing what it does best.
!
Vista | Traktor Pro 2 | VCI-400 EGE | VCI-100 Arcade | MF Pro Beat Masher | MidiFighter Classic (pics)
Soundcloud
Ill have a look into it for you but I think it should be fairly simple hardware wise
!
Vista | Traktor Pro 2 | VCI-400 EGE | VCI-100 Arcade | MF Pro Beat Masher | MidiFighter Classic (pics)
Soundcloud
^truth. many thanks.
Can you comment on those driver boards for the joysticks and panel buttons in this pic?
Are their control functions now handled by the mf board?
On that first (actually second) Midi fighter design the large pcb held the LEDs and the LED driver chip and all the matrix diodes for the button array.
In that first design I used button scanning, in the latest design all the buttons are read in through two shift registers in a much more simple fashion.
The smaller pcb had the main micro (the brain), the USB driver, and the joysticks.
That pcb is mounted to the face plate using 4 x 15 mm threaded standoffs with a few washers to get the spacing for the joysticks right.
The smallest PCB had four LED push buttons, I used micro on this PCB to create radio buttons. The led of the button that was pressed last glows the brightest and the others all ways glow slightly so you can see them in a dark room. The button micro communicates the button state back to the main micro in binary over two wires.
The smallest PCB was mounted to the face plate with two 5 mm stand offs.
This works nicely as the buttons are 8mm high, and the faceplate is 3mm thick so they are perfectly flush, which is important for mode type controls.
In that design the usb cable came in through a hole drilled in the cast aluminum enclosure, through a screw clamp to prevent it from pulling out and then was soldered directly to the joystick board - not super elegant. The USB connector there was just for prototyping.
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