seeking advice from experienced mobile DJs and sound engineers
Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 37
  1. #1

    Default seeking advice from experienced mobile DJs and sound engineers

    Hey guys, I just wanted to ask a couple of questions. When I set about building my first "beginner's P.A." I didn't really do much talking to anyone. I just started reading about products and forum posts to find out what things I would need. When I say "beginner" I of course mean entry level, but despite that, I found my research leading may to pay much more on certain things that I was expecting.

    Question 1: I read that all this powered equipment needs these super large gauge extension cords to handle the wattage or voltage. Whatever. So the first thing I order is a bunch of these expensive, heavy as heck extension cords and then I get my powered subs and speakers, only to find that they all have little pencil thin power cords.
    So what gives? Did I just make a fool out of myself and my wallet, buying these for no reason. Or are there some
    large gauge power cords I don't know about and I need to be getting those to? (this only matters now because I still need more cords)

    Question 2: I had an 18" powered subwoofer, rated at about 800 watts I think. I used it in a small wedding and the bass was great, with the volume barely even turned up. Then I get a deal to get a second matching sub and when I run two of them, there's way less bass than one. So again I'm like "what the heck?"

    I know I have them wired right and I basically put one next to the left speaker and one next to the right speaker and it seems like I have to turn them way up, just to even tell they are on. Yet when I use just one, it doesn't have to be turned up much. This is crazy.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated. Please don't bash me on product selection or anything like that. Again I did say "beginner" I'm poor. I know that's a crime. lol

    Thanks in advance for the help guys.

  2. #2
    Tech Guru Patch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Bristol, UK
    Posts
    6,468

    Default

    Do you know the difference between wiring in series and parallel???

    I've got a VERY basic grasp of it, but I think it's a good place for you to start searching.

    Someone'll be along soon that can advise the hell out of you on this issue!
    DJ'ing: 2x1200MK2, DJM 850, Dicers, F1, Zomo MC-1000, Sony MDR-v700, i7 Win 10 HP Envy
    Production: Ableton Live 8 and a mouse, Sennheiser HD400, Sony VAIO

    Click HERE to D/L Free Tracks from Soundcloud!!!
    https://www.facebook.com/Patchdj

  3. #3

    Default

    I tried a couple of different wiring methods but I will look into what you said.
    Since all of my speakers are powered and I have a very small setup, I wasn't
    sure that would apply to me.
    Last edited by Synaptic Flow; 02-23-2016 at 04:31 PM.

  4. #4
    Moderator keithace's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    5,070

    Default

    out of phase...
    Weapons, not food, not homes, not shoes
    Not need, just feed the war cannibal animal

  5. #5
    Tech Guru Patch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Bristol, UK
    Posts
    6,468

    Default

    Elaborate...
    ...Elaborate...
    DJ'ing: 2x1200MK2, DJM 850, Dicers, F1, Zomo MC-1000, Sony MDR-v700, i7 Win 10 HP Envy
    Production: Ableton Live 8 and a mouse, Sennheiser HD400, Sony VAIO

    Click HERE to D/L Free Tracks from Soundcloud!!!
    https://www.facebook.com/Patchdj

  6. #6
    Tech Mentor ragverp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    281

    Default

    my first thought was the phase, maybe 1 sub is out of phase towards the other one so it cancels itself
    Allen & Heath DB4, Xone K2, 2x Native instrument D2
    Soundcloud
    Mixcloud

  7. #7

    Default

    Ok, so like I said, it's a simple set up.

    I have my Denon Controller using 1/4" line outs into the L/R inputs of one powered sub. I output from the sub's L/R with XLR cables into the second sub. The second sub L XLR out goes into my left powered speaker and the second sub R XLR out goes into my right powered speakers. That's it.

    Then I do all the gain staging procedures.

    I have always spread the two subs out, next to the two speakers. When I only had one sub, I put it in the middle and my bass has never been better than that time using one.

    These subs don't have any kind of phase inverting switch or anything like that. (cheapness) All that have is the volume level and some sort of crossover or filter, that says, 40hz to 120hz.

    Maybe that information will help.

    Also, nobody has commented yet if I am wasting money on heavy gauge extension cords.

  8. #8
    Tech Guru
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Texas, USA
    Posts
    893

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Synaptic Flow View Post
    Question 1: I read that all this powered equipment needs these super large gauge extension cords to handle the wattage or voltage.
    The power leads (the short cord from the equipment to the wall) are sized based on the current draw that the cord will be supporting. These cords tend to be short (3-10ft). Because the cable is short, the total resistance of that cable will be (relatively) low. The issue limiting power cords tends to be the heating load that the cable can safely carry.

    Keep in mind that an extension cord has a "to" and a "from" path for the current - so the length of the conductors is twice the length of the cable.

    I use 40ft 12ga extension cords with SOOW rubber jackets. They are heavy, expensive, and will last a lifetime - unless someone steals them.

    Quote Originally Posted by Synaptic Flow View Post
    Question 2: I had an 18" powered subwoofer, rated at about 800 watts I think. I used it in a small wedding and the bass was great, with the volume barely even turned up. Then I get a deal to get a second matching sub and when I run two of them, there's way less bass than one. So again I'm like "what the heck?"
    This is a classic phase issue. If possible, reverse the conductors going to one of the subwoofers and retest.
    Denon X1600, NI X1 Mk1 & Mk2, MF Twister
    Kontrol S2, Maschine Mk1, APC 40
    Retired: VCI-100 Arcade (Signed #198/300))
    BFM 10x DR200 & 10x Titan 39

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by soundinmotiondj View Post
    The power leads (the short cord from the equipment to the wall) are sized based on the current draw that the cord will be supporting. These cords tend to be short (3-10ft). Because the cable is short, the total resistance of that cable will be (relatively) low. The issue limiting power cords tends to be the heating load that the cable can safely carry.

    Keep in mind that an extension cord has a "to" and a "from" path for the current - so the length of the conductors is twice the length of the cable.

    I use 40ft 12ga extension cords with SOOW rubber jackets. They are heavy, expensive, and will last a lifetime - unless someone steals them.



    This is a classic phase issue. If possible, reverse the conductors going to one of the subwoofers and retest.
    Thank you about the extension cords. 12ga is what I am using, so I will continue to do so.

    Now could you explain what you mean by "reverse the conductors?"

    Thank you.

  10. #10
    Tech Guru SirReal's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    San Fran Bay Area
    Posts
    2,204

    Default

    I would try sending the left channel to one sub and it's monitor and the right channel to the other sub and it's monitor.
    "Walking the fine line between Stupidity and Genious" My Soundcloud ---- My Mixcloud
    MBP Retina 2015--TSP 2.10--2xDNSC5000--2xDNSC2900--2xDNSC2000--NI F1--Denon DN-X1700--HDJ2000--Stanton STR8-80--QSC K12's--Crown Amplifier--Urei Monitors

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •