Wow, thanks for the information. Do you know of any way to tell if you’re buying the first wave or more recent releases? Maybe a different serial number coding, manufactured date, or something?
Mostapha - I don’t want to clog this useful thread up with garbage, but I never said all the wires were that difficult, because they’re not. They are however, more time consuming than simply plugging in one single USB cable and 2 sets of RCA’s. Also, if I’m buying a mixer with a built in soundcard, I think asking that the mixer not need an external soundcard with a rats nest of wires to get full functionality is a reasonable request.
I guess this is what you can expect when riding the bleeding edge of technology…
And I actually do think that driving an automatic is an irresponsible choice that implies a great deal about your ability to control a car as well as where/how your attention is focused when driving.
I drive ~25,000 miles/year, mostly in Atlanta traffic with a 6-speed manual. About 100,000 miles in doing it that way, and I can barely drive automatics without getting terrified about what the car is doing that I can’t control.
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I agree with everything else you said.
DVS Setup with soundcard:
Move 2 cables per deck (4 connections per deck, meaning you plug in 4 connectors)
Plug in 2 cables per deck (8 connections per deck)
USB cable to computer. (2 connections)
14 connections total for a 2-deck setup.
20 connections total for a 3-deck setup.
26 connections total for a 4-deck setup.
DVS setup swapping out the mixer:
Move 2 cables per deck (4 connections per deck)
USB cable to computer (2 connections per deck)
2 cables for the master signal (2 connections)
2 cables for the booth signal (2 connections)
Move IEC to the new mixer (1 connection)
11 connections for a 2-deck setup.
15 connections for a 3-deck setup.
19 connections for a 4-deck setup.
It makes more sense if you’re using more than 2 decks, but I don’t think that saving 7 simple RCA connections is worth trading out the mixer, which requires either an FOH mixer and another source or some nontrivial time for silence…plus all the other DJs that night playing on your mixer. And, you have to have access to the FOH mixer so you don’t get a pop when you reconnect the system.
If you’re using a 2-deck setup and adding your mixer to their booth so you don’t have to trade everything out b/t DJs, it’s actually more cables than using the sound card.
And the mixer is more to carry.
If there’s a certified mixer already in the booth, you’d be a moron not to use it…and the DJM900 is really common (if you use TSP).
Certified mixers make sense for installations, but I don’t see how it’s significant enough to swing the decision for an individual to buy one mixer over another if everything else is equal…especially since everything else is rarely equal.
I’m not saying not to get the DJM900 or anything like that, but I think people put a bit too much stock in certification.
wow.. thank you so much for all the responses! So I guess the 800 is the only way to go. I’d like to get a 900 but that’s quite the financial investment! I wouldn’t mind buying a used 800 but it’s so hard to tell if it’s been abused or not by the prior owner. decisions, decisions!
There’s a reason you’re on my ignore list…I guess I’ll stop clicking “view post.”
The 900 is a better mixer. It’s just that you can get better for a similar price anyway and I think people really overstate the significance of that one feature for anyone not doing a club install.
