Just put my VCI together after I custompainted the casing and the metal platters for the jogwheels.
Now, the wheels are totally unresponsive (wont turn red) unless I touch the metalscrew and not the paint. Flipping them solves the problem, as they get connection again. But again, then there is no point in my custom painting and the grey is ugly as hell.
So the issue seems to be with the paint itself.
It’s a plastic paint, same as used on cars.
Someone correct me if im wrong, but doesn’t the ‘touch’ part of the jogwheel work on conductivity? Therefore i’d assume a plastic based paint would prevent this?
I dont know about the conductivity, if you put something made of plastic between the platter and your hand it still responds. I just tried it with a plasticbag.
But if thats the case, then i presume a toplayer of clear coat would prevent this aswell?
It does work on conductivity. This is why the plastic paint doesn’t work. The current runs through the screws and down to a responder. If you paint the jogs you have to use conductive paint. You can just paint the other side that works. Offcause not the side where you already painted it once.
On the VCI-100, the jogs are not conductive,as the silver ones are painted and the black are anodized (both finishes cut the conductivity). The ones on the Spin-Typhoon ARE cundutive (they are bare metal).
Before re-painting them, I would just turn up the touch sensitivity on the back (I had to turn up mine after painting them). You will likely find that you will need to turn DOWN the sensitivity after a while as they “break-in” (basically they change in capacitance when they get oily from your fingers).
If it’s not conductive, how does it work?
If i have the now plasticbased side up it wont respond unless i touch any of the 3 screws. When i flip it, it’s all good again responding all over the metalplate. Turning the sensitivity up does nothing, all the way to “always on” wont even work.
Photojojo, what springs du you mean?
I only have the plastic and metal-platters.
At the moment Im hunting for a conductive clear coat. But none of the stores Ive been to seems to know and no labels seems to tell.
Any tip on some brand?
I think the spring is the ground contact that is deep down inside the mechanism. Many people who take the whole jog wheel apart do not put it back together properly and cannot get ANY responcse.
The touch sensitivity on the VCI is capacitive not conductive. Therefore it can “go through” the normal paint. But if you have applied too thick of a coat, the dielectric is too strong and you lose function. You will have to sand it down and put on a thinner coat.
Most of the problems people have when painting the jogs comes down to one simple thing: Paint on the inner beveled side of the screw holes. If you cover those well when painting, generally it doesn’t matter much which type of paint you use. That area is the connection point between the inner brass wheel and the jog surface, so just make sure it’s clear of paint.
Tried to paper down the inner side of the screwholes, but that just messed up the finish.
At work we have metalbased paint, but that is a lot thicker than the plastic. (plus, i’m not so good with that painting technique)
Solved the problem.
Papered it down on the backside, giving it a rugged surface like the SE anodized ones.
Then i put on a spraycan layer of clearcoat to keep it from loosing finish.
I work for a company that produces inustrial coatings, so maybe it differs from “ordinary” paint. I dunno, i work with their databases.
A while ago, DjTT had some rubberized rings to put on the jogwheels. This to give it a more scratchfriendly surface. But would’nt that also cause dielectric.
Making the platters unusable?