Pioneer EFX-1000 Mod -- Question about Sanwa OBSF-30 Button Clearance

DJ Gear & Hardware Hardware: Controllers, Mods and Gear
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Pioneer EFX-1000 Mod – Question about Sanwa OBSF-30 Button Clearance

Hi, I’m modding a Pioneer EFX-1000 to use an arcade button as a Tempo Tap button. I’m explaining the whole situation because, with DIY, very-detailed forum posts have always been a great resource for me.

(History: The Tap Button is the weak link of the unit. On half the used ones I’ve run across the Tap button stops “springing” mostly because the recoil mechanism is a 10 cent micro switch mounted to the main PCB, and actuated by a fragile 3mm plastic peg. To add more fun to the mix, the Tap assembly is held in alignment by two tiny, unrepairable, plastic pins about 1mm in diameter each. If either pin breaks then the whole thing becomes wonky.)

I’m removing the entire (broken) Tap assembly and wiring a Sanwa OBSF-30 in place. The first problem is that there’s 28mm of depth in between the top of the EFX-1000 chassis and the PCB. As we can see from its datasheet, the OBSF-30 needs at least 32mm of clearance underneath:

http://www.in2amusements.com.au/datasheets/obsf-30.pdf

So, I’m using Front Panel Express to fabricate a Perspex “riser ring” that will both give the button the depth it needs (I’m going with a total of 37mm to be safe) and make the hole diameter correct (29.5mm in this case).

I’m using the “snap in” type of Sanwa button. According to the documentation , this button can snap into a surface anywhere between 2mm and 5mm thick. But, the total depth of my “riser ring” is 9mm. So, my idea was to make the first 3mm of the ring (the entry point the button drops down into) 29.5mm in diameter, then expand the diameter to 33.5mm, then at the end of the “tunnel”, drop the diameter back down to 29.5mm.

My question is this: does the part of the button shaft just below the “locking clips” require a certain hole diameter? I can imagine a situation where insufficient diameter would “pinch” the clips shut and prevent the button’s locking action from working.

If a larger hole diameter is required for the space below the “locking clips”, does anybody have any idea how many millimeters of depth this diameter is required for? Unfortunately the drawing does not provide enough detail to determine that. If someone has a link to a “true datasheet” for the Sanwa buttons I’d appreciate it.

Thanks for your time – and I’ll definitely post pics once the mod is done.
rs

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Sanwa OBSF-30 soldered in place as a direct replacement for original button. I used coated solid-strand jumper wire to patch it to the PCB. A little tricky to work with the SMD components and coated circuit-board but nothing good lighting and patience didn’t fix.

Once the Perspex ring I designed to fit the button to the chassis comes in tomorrow I’ll be able to complete it.

This exercise really instilled me with lots of respect for the Pioneer engineers. Beautiful design.

rs

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I always wanted to destroy my efx1000 and make it into a midi controller for software using a hercules e2 or similar, as the interface is so well thought out, can’t really bring myself to do it though as it cost me $1000 a few years back… your mod looks great though, nice work.

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Man, I knew of forums with bigger attachment allowances in the late '90s… :slight_smile:
rs

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This is a very sick mod.

how did you go about cutting the holes?

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Ryan, thanks.

I removed the stock Tap Button assembly entirely because it’s a point of weakness on the unit. I used Front Panel Express (you draft it, they make it) to fabricate a Perspex ring that’s a little larger than the diameter of the hole in the chassis, but the internal cutout is the right size to accommodate the button. The Perspex ring is also 4mm high to add just a touch of clearance for the button.

Attached is the Front Panel Express drafting file in case anybody else wants it. The cost is USD $14.13 in my location. That might vary by country slightly.

All in all about a $20 mod if you already have basic tools and supplies.

rs

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Mod complete.

I’m not thrilled about the appearance of the clear Perspex. The epoxy used to fasten it to the chassis tended to give it a generally “smudgey” appearance. I’ll probably find a flat enamel to paint the Perspex with. (The only reason I didn’t get it in black is because Front Panel Express only offers Perspex in Clear and Red.)

In use, however, it’s 100 times better than the original. The Sanwa button is just perfect for this. I did have to file some tiny plastic “nubs” off the button shaft that are not mentioned in its Datasheet. It’s fine though, because it ended up making the fit perfectly snug.

I also replaced the original knobs with APEM Components knobs, which have (2x) set screws. I got turned onto these fantastic and affordable knobs via the new Bozak Isolator.

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If I ever get one I’m sending it to you for this mod!

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Hi, I was just wondering how the mod’s held up? Still going strong?

I have recently ordered an arcade switch to do the same.

Can you still recommend doing the mod? Any tips?

Much appreciated.

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Still holding up great, and it is heavily used on a regular basis. The perspex ring is overbuilt which I think has helped a lot. So much better than the original button. rs

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That’s great to hear. Thanks for the feedback.

The switch has arrived so i’m just about to measure up for the perspex ring. Hope it all works out!

Thanks again.

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Did you end up using the Sanwa OBSF-30 button, or the slightly smaller one like on a Midi Fighter?

rs

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The Sanwa, i’m doing like for like how you did. Thanks for taking the time to document it. I thought I was going to have to send it back to Pioneer just for them to fit another cheap switch. You’re a life saver!

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You’re welcome. So often I’ve been helped out by DIY forum postings; glad I was able to give back for once. :slight_smile:
rs

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Installed the switch over the weekend and i’m pleased to report that all is working perfectly.

Super pleased with the result from this, its far more practical than replacing the original switch and I’ve no doubt saved myself a hefty wedge in avoiding Pioneers repair costs.

Thanks a lot, really appreciate the help.

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An old thread but a good one nonetheless.

Hats off to the person that did the mod, its quite remarkable. But what I love most about the mod are the depth, character, and original/max knobs that are being used over the plastic and hardly grippy factory knobs.

My EFX1000 was sent to pioneer for the TAP button as well but this time, they repaired it differently, in a much better fashion then the way it is originally sold. Mine is currently modded so that the TAP button is touch sensitive, theres no tactile feedback. I find the tap button being touch sensitive to work surprising great. I can post some pictures when I go home tonight.:sunglasses:

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Thanks Darken. Yes, one of the things I experimented with was the “zero force” push switches from ALPS, before deciding I personally liked the arcade button best. I think the button will now outlast the unit by a substantial margin.

I became acquainted with APEM knobs from the new Bozak equipment, and I must say I prefer their knobs to anything being made right now (even Sifam, Elma, etc…).

Also I feel that the 1000 is the best FX unit that Pioneer ever made. They have since departed from the traditional effects analogy, choosing instead to offer a few tempo synced “pre-rolled” sequences in the newer units. I think a lot of the EFX effects can sound dated if overused, but I think the RMX effects will send a lot moreso.

rs

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I couldn’t agree with you more, the EFX1000 truly is the best ‘effector’ pioneer has released to date, and from my personal experience and use–its THE best effector compared to other offerings from other brands. I actually recently auditioned both the RMX500 as well as the RMX1000, both are nowhere near the capability the efx1000 offers–not to mention the delay, and the sounds created by the job wheel and effects on the right-side are premium quality in sound, the hold and automatic snap back of the effect of the jog wheel is just flat-out ‘sick’. But the most unique and visually pleasing trick feature which I use a lot on the efx1000 is the ‘feedback loop’, the ‘feedback loop’ was never intended by pioneer and was discovered by avid users. Having the ability to create a loop 2-4bars long while manually stopping a cdj doing a vinyl brake or a back-spin AND THEN creating a roll trick using the 1/8-up-to-8/1 parameter to finally go straight back into the cdj is unreal, every time I pull that trick off in front of people–they can’t help but smile. I simply cannot be without the efx1000.

Heres a short video of the trick, don’t mind the guy doing the trick–hes sorta an odd-ball:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_aNu5q1d9I

Heres another video, and this guy is actually quite good with the trick. Btw, this isn’t a trick that is easily pulled-off, it takes time and tons of practicing with tons of feedback loopings made. Regardless, all ‘do-able’, I can easily pull off those stuns and then some–but it took much practice and staying up late every night lol: