# Restoring Technics **URL:** \ **Category:** CDJ & Vinyl DJing\ **Created:** [May 27, 2012, 6:31am UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664 "2012-05-27T06:31:52Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![stbanas925](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e19adc/32.png) [@stbanas925](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/stbanas925)\ **Post date:** [May 27, 2012, 6:31am UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/1 "2012-05-27T06:31:52Z")
**Restoring Technics** So I’m on a mission to get my pair of mk2’s looking great. I’ve been looking up videos on taking them apart, but I just don’t know how to clean cabinet and tonearm base/height adjusment thing properly. There’s a whole lot of gunk/dust in the crevices and I’m not really sure how to approach it. I was thinking of just taking it apart and using windex or soap water on it to see what I could scrape off. Anyone have some experience in restoring technics? I don’t really want to buy new cabinets for them because they’re around $150 each. ---
**Author:** ![djlotus](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/258eb7/32.png) [@djlotus](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/djlotus)\ **Post date:** [May 28, 2012, 8:58pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/2 "2012-05-28T20:58:49Z")
Your best bet is to take them apart completely and clean each piece. Soap and water works great. Just remember to lube what needs to be lubed when you reassemble. ---
**Author:** ![stbanas925](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e19adc/32.png) [@stbanas925](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/stbanas925)\ **Post date:** [May 28, 2012, 11:28pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/3 "2012-05-28T23:28:44Z")
What do you use to lube the parts? I have some extra oil that I use for my hair clippers and I also have WD-40. ---
**Author:** ![djlotus](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/258eb7/32.png) [@djlotus](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/djlotus)\ **Post date:** [May 28, 2012, 11:33pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/4 "2012-05-28T23:33:44Z")
For the tonearm parts which screw together you want a silicone based lubricant. ---
**Author:** ![Patch](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/user_avatar/forum.djtechtools.com/patch/32/118_2.png) [@Patch](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/Patch)\ **Post date:** [May 29, 2012, 11:51am UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/5 "2012-05-29T11:51:13Z")
What about re-assembling the tonearm? I hear calibration is a bitch, and putting them back together can cause damage to the bearings if you’re not careful… ---
**Author:** ![djlotus](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/258eb7/32.png) [@djlotus](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/djlotus)\ **Post date:** [May 29, 2012, 12:43pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/6 "2012-05-29T12:43:32Z")
Reassembly is a pain but if you pay attention while taking it apart you can do it. Calibration is a bitch the first few times you do it, but gets easier. It is easy to damage the bearings if you aren’t careful. You just need to be careful. It’s one of those things where, if you aren’t sure, let someone who is do it. ---
**Author:** ![stbanas925](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e19adc/32.png) [@stbanas925](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/stbanas925)\ **Post date:** [May 29, 2012, 5:30pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/7 "2012-05-29T17:30:27Z")
[![](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/uploads/techtools/original/3X/e/a/ea496808ca94974c14e79df3cd4ba8ce4b269de9.jpeg "How to strip a technics 1200/1210 back to its face plate for painting or replacing. part 1") ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDYgjwdQ55s) I’ve been using this guys videos as a reference. He’s extremely detailed and keeps everything organized. He also has videos on taking apart the tonearm/base, changing/calibrating the pitch fader, replacing the target light, etc. Definitely a must see if you’re trying to restore one of your own… ---
**Author:** ![Xonetacular](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/user_avatar/forum.djtechtools.com/xonetacular/32/13588_2.png) [@Xonetacular](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/Xonetacular)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2012, 3:11am UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/8 "2012-05-30T03:11:23Z")
> [@Patch](#): > > What about re-assembling the tonearm? I hear calibration is a bitch, and putting them back together can cause damage to the bearings if you’re not careful… I wouldn’t advise taking the actual tone arm assembly with the bearings and pivots apart. That can come out with two screws if needed to access everything else or replace or it might not need work. I think he just means the whole tone arm housing with the height adjust, lift lever, etc. > [@stbanas925](#): > > So I’m on a mission to get my pair of mk2’s looking great. I’ve been looking up videos on taking them apart, but I just don’t know how to clean cabinet and tonearm base/height adjusment thing properly. There’s a whole lot of gunk/dust in the crevices and I’m not really sure how to approach it. I was thinking of just taking it apart and using windex or soap water on it to see what I could scrape off. Anyone have some experience in restoring technics? I don’t really want to buy new cabinets for them because they’re around $150 each. For that it depends- usually I’ll start cleaning stuff with isopropyl alcohol and paper towel and qtips. Windex would be fine too. Get as much out as you can, if needed you can disassemble the tonearm base housing more to get access to all the moving parts if things are really gunked up and stuck on the inside. Like djlotus said just relube it. ---
**Author:** ![audiolive](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/a/85e7bf/32.png) [@audiolive](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/audiolive)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2012, 12:23pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/9 "2012-05-30T12:23:16Z")
Cotton buds, Old tooth brush and dish washing liquid is what I use. If you can help it try not to disassemble the tone arm. It is a real bitch to setup again if you havn’t done it before. ---
**Author:** ![Nicadraus](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/user_avatar/forum.djtechtools.com/nicadraus/32/1032_2.png) [@Nicadraus](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/Nicadraus)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2012, 2:55pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/10 "2012-05-30T14:55:44Z")
> [@djlotus](#): > > Reassembly is a pain but if you pay attention while taking it apart you can do it. Calibration is a bitch the first few times you do it, but gets easier. It is easy to damage the bearings if you aren’t careful. You just need to be careful. **It’s one of those things where, if you aren’t sure, let someone who is do it.** +1 🙂 ---
**Author:** ![Patch](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/user_avatar/forum.djtechtools.com/patch/32/118_2.png) [@Patch](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/Patch)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2012, 7:11pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/11 "2012-05-30T19:11:08Z")
[quote=““Xone””] > [@Patch](#): > > What about re-assembling the tonearm? I hear calibration is a bitch, and putting them back together can cause damage to the bearings if you’re not careful… I wouldn’t advise taking the actual tone arm assembly with the bearings and pivots apart. That can come out with two screws if needed to access everything else or replace or it might not need work. I think he just means the whole tone arm housing with the height adjust, lift lever, etc. [/quote] I want have the parts that are colour coded painted - so the tone arm base (minus height adjuster) and the 2 pivot parts. The actual tone arm would stay silver. Do-able? Or not worth the hassle. I’d love a painted tone arm, but not at the expense of a working tonearm! ---
**Author:** ![djlotus](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/258eb7/32.png) [@djlotus](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/djlotus)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2012, 7:15pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/12 "2012-05-30T19:15:54Z")
Very doable. I do it all the time. ![ImageUploadedByTapatalk1338405256.314344.jpg](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/uploads/techtools/original/3X/7/a/7a9bee0e3402b5945bd339a42ac60cd3ddc8c250.jpeg) ![ImageUploadedByTapatalk1338405298.295997.jpg](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/uploads/techtools/original/3X/1/b/1b877520ce80ef5685ea2c0c87d2c6558a8b13f3.jpeg) ![ImageUploadedByTapatalk1338405333.013914.jpg](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/uploads/techtools/original/3X/6/a/6a53e50204a771fcab25e1e00339e2329782c8bb.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![Patch](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/user_avatar/forum.djtechtools.com/patch/32/118_2.png) [@Patch](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/Patch)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2012, 7:40pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/13 "2012-05-30T19:40:09Z")
Nice pics. Just what I needed. I must admit I never had any intention of taking the actual arm apart (and probably wont! 😉) Any tips on re-assembly? Especially the arm lifting mechanism… ---
**Author:** ![stbanas925](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e19adc/32.png) [@stbanas925](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/stbanas925)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2012, 7:49pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/14 "2012-05-30T19:49:41Z")
> [@djlotus](#): > > Very doable. I do it all the time. > > ![ImageUploadedByTapatalk1338405256.314344.jpg](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/uploads/techtools/original/3X/7/a/7a9bee0e3402b5945bd339a42ac60cd3ddc8c250.jpeg) > > ![ImageUploadedByTapatalk1338405298.295997.jpg](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/uploads/techtools/original/3X/1/b/1b877520ce80ef5685ea2c0c87d2c6558a8b13f3.jpeg) > > ![ImageUploadedByTapatalk1338405333.013914.jpg](https://us1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/uploads/techtools/original/3X/6/a/6a53e50204a771fcab25e1e00339e2329782c8bb.jpeg) Wow very nice work. I’ll probably have to take apart at least the tonearm base to clean it up. I’m too nervous to take apart the whole thing though… ---
**Author:** ![djlotus](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/258eb7/32.png) [@djlotus](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/djlotus)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2012, 7:52pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/15 "2012-05-30T19:52:31Z")
Only tip that really applies is: take your time and be careful. What exactly about the lift arm? I’m think it probably works and is set up differently than you are thinking. Nicadraus helped me through a few issues I had and since then I have completely proven down and rebuilt about 30 tone arms. If you are mechanically inclined and patient, you should be able to figure it. I would say from my experience the anti-skate is the trickiest part. ---
**Author:** ![Xonetacular](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/user_avatar/forum.djtechtools.com/xonetacular/32/13588_2.png) [@Xonetacular](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/Xonetacular)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2012, 7:57pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/16 "2012-05-30T19:57:24Z")
> [@djlotus](#): > > Nicadraus helped me through a few issues I had and since then I have completely proven down and rebuilt about 30 tone arms. > > If you are mechanically inclined and patient, you should be able to figure it. I would say from my experience the anti-skate is the trickiest part. Yeah I mean as long as you are mechanically inclined and this type of stuff comes naturally to you it shouldn’t be too much of an issue. Just keep track of all parts and be patient- and make sure you get the anti-skate spring right when you put it back together so it engages the tone arm. ---
**Author:** ![Patch](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/user_avatar/forum.djtechtools.com/patch/32/118_2.png) [@Patch](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/Patch)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2012, 8:57pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/17 "2012-05-30T20:57:49Z")
I am (was - a long time ago!) an engineer, so I’m not necessarily afraid of taking apart the assembly - but I know from experience that springs can ping off and never be found, bearings can roll out and disappear between the floor boards, etc… 😆 If only I strip ‘em down in a big ol’ bubble… ---
**Author:** ![djlotus](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/258eb7/32.png) [@djlotus](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/djlotus)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2012, 9:04pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/18 "2012-05-30T21:04:15Z")
Well you’re In Luck Patch. The anti skate is a partially wound spring, so no chance of it flying anywhere, and the bearings are fixed. ---
**Author:** ![Patch](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/flex001/user_avatar/forum.djtechtools.com/patch/32/118_2.png) [@Patch](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/Patch)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2012, 9:12pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/19 "2012-05-30T21:12:50Z")
That’s reassuring. Thanks Lotus. ---
**Author:** ![stbanas925](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e19adc/32.png) [@stbanas925](https://forum.djtechtools.com/u/stbanas925)\ **Post date:** [May 30, 2012, 11:09pm UTC](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664/20 "2012-05-30T23:09:58Z")
> [@djlotus](#): > > If you are mechanically inclined and patient, you should be able to figure it. I would say from my experience the anti-skate is the trickiest part. I definitely like taking things apart. I have ADD and I can focus on this kind of stuff for hours lol. [Next page](https://forum.djtechtools.com/t/restoring-technics/42664.md?page=2)