Ripping Vinyl to Computer
Does anyone else rip vinyl to computer? I’ve noticed that my rips lack punch and sound a bit flat. I record through traktor with new ortofon needles on 1200s.
I rip via my 1200s with Ortofon’s via DJM 750mkII straight to Ableton (turn off warp). I then do a tiny bit of mastering, mainly gain, EQ and gentle, gentle limiter then A/B with some digital releases to get them close. Then bounce out an AIFF.
discussion: High-Resolution Vinyl Disc Playback, How do you EQ older discs | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
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Your needle/stylus and Mixer/Interface will have a lot to do with the sound you’re getting on your rips. Are you using a Traktor A/D interface?
Yes. Brand new ortofon needles and catridges. Recorded into an S4 MK3 to the laptop.
Which ortofons? They each have different frequency responses, which may be impairing your rips. Are you noticing the flatness/lack of punch when playing it live too - or just when recorded? (if live, it may be your needles/carts) The S4, while being decent for a set, wouldn’t be the best option for ripping vinyl IMO - if you want high quality rips.
I will say that the quality of my recorded audio from vinyl mixes went up big time when I stopped using my Pioneer DJM-900 NXS as my AD and mixer, and went to a Master Sounds Radius (analog) mixer going into Traktor Audio 6. (I researched some of the “best” interfaces for going from vinyl to computer, and I was priced out, so I sacrificed and got the Audio 6) There’s even a big difference in the sound between the Line/Phono Pre on the mixer, which tells me the turntable pres can also have a big effect on the recorded sound.
When you start getting picky on the sound for vinyl, it starts to get costly quick.
Okay my needles are 20-20k. 6mv output.
So it sounds like I should use my Audio 4 to record into. I also have a Xone Px5. I’ve only ripped about 15 singles so far so I can go back and redo them if it makes that big of a difference.
I hear ya. I follow some audiophile blogs and pages. It can get SUPER expensive.
My setup and rips sound great:
Technics SL-1200Mk2 or SL-Q2 (consumer turntable w/ similar specs and design as 1200)
Record Doctor Record Clamp
Ortofon Super OM 20 (nude elliptical diamond) for 12"/LP
Shure M35X for 7"
ART DJ Pre II Phono Preamplifier powered by an external linear regulated power supply (not the supplied wall wart)
Behringer UMC404HD USB interface
iFi iDefender+ USB ground loop eliminator
Record into Adobe Audition @ 24 bit / 96 kHz
Post process in Audition using a variety of plugins depending on what’s needed and bounce out to 24 bit / 48 kHz AIF
I clean everything before using a VinylVac and this setup here:
I use my own cleaning solution of Triton X-100, 99% Isopropyl Alcohol, and distilled water.
Comments:
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The cleaning makes a huge difference - a lot of my collection is grungy from years gigging in smoky clubs, but even on newish records it helps
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Next upgrade will be a higher-end Ortofon (Super OM 30 or 2M Bronze)
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Next next upgrade will be more automated cleaning system (Record Doctor or maybe ultrasonic system)
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Next next next upgrade will be SL-1200mk7
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All and all if you already have the turntable, the rest is actually not that expensive. The ART is a GREAT preamp that gets ignored because it is made by ART and marketed to DJs (don’t power it with the wall wart though). The M35X is the best cart hands-down for 7" 45s. You want at least a decent elliptical cart for everything else (spherical DJ carts not worth it). Ortofon OM 10 is a good start.
thanks for the insight. I have a record doctor and always deep clean before i record vinyl. It looks like I probably need to look into an elliptical needle if I want to get serious about the rips.
You’re going to get much better sound from your PX5 - better phono preamps and better ADC than anything in the AudioDJ/Sx line. I’ve noticed significant sound differences between the A10DJ and my DB4, and even my focusrite Scarlett sounds better. And I love the S4 mk3 but listen side by side with a pioneer djm 900 you can see why NI isn’t the one doing club installations. I’m not sure if this is why your recordings sound flat but it couldn’t hurt to change it up if you already have the PX5.
Also look into the software VinylStudio - it’s made for ripping vinyl and has some great tools built in to automate a lot of what you’re doing to clean up audio. I don’t do much myself - normalize and take out any of the biggest pops - but you have options to remove him, rumble, and lots of ways to decrease clicks and other noise.
EQ is the key
I wounldn’t over think it. As others have mentioned, Make sure you have a quality needle, pre-amp & a high end sound-card that you have tested and know records well. The great thing about vinyl is the sound with the pops & crackle. However, some sound-cards over exaggerate these pops. Also Vinyl tends to be bass heavy, so that’s why your recordings sound so flat. A good sound-card & some EQ & you are good to go!
They arent bass heavy. Vinyls dynamic range is smaller than Digital. They lack bass when they are ripped.
I started by saying keep it simple. The dynamic range in dB is smaller, yes. But I am talking about the audio gain dB level of each frequency on your track. I have been DJing for over 30 years & have an extensive collection of vinyl I that I have ripped into mp3’s over the years. When compared to a rip from a CD for example, The mid and high frequency was always at a lower recorded dB level then compared to a CD rip. It makes perfect sense when you understand how vinyl records are manufactured. Because of this, I have always had to gain the mids and Highs. If you record from vinyl and leave the recording as is (flat). Yes it will sound bass heavy compared to anything digital that you import into your system. This issue is exaggerated on Albums or any piece of vinyl that the has a lot of tracks squeezed on to one disc. Again if you understand how vinyl is manufactured, you understand why. At the end of the day I was giving a simple answer of what has worked for me.