Vinyl Rips
Ok gents, I had my 1210’s plugged in the other day to my Xone 4D and was able to record a record via traktor with out having a DVS system, my question is would this be a viable way to rip them?
or should I stick to using a standalone software to do this?
are you editing them in a standalone program after recording them in traktor?
if so, then i’d just rip in that program, edit, save and use in traktor.
The sound quality shouldn’t really be any different, except any gain and eq settings applied in traktor, but you will have the editing abilities if you use standalone.
my tip: it’s important to try to get the rips to the same volume as the rest of your music.
good luck.
I use Sound Forge 9.0 and record in 16-bit wav format, and process it into Platinum Notes. Works wonderfully for me 
okay might give that a whirl, once I get into my house my vinyl is coming home 
been at my brothers for a long time!
will check out Soundforge and I was intending on getting PN anyways.
Nice
What kind of needle are you using?
for the love of music, record in wav! i see so many vinyl rips online that are encoded with vbr. it’s no wonder people think vinyl sounds so much better than digital…
192kbs VBR is absolute crap!
True that, but… I tend to leave vinyl rips alone, as that the speed is not constant throughout the entire song. At some points the track speeds up.
Not that great if you’re spinning digitally in my book.
Ableton warping can fix it, albeit a little time consuming if you dont have a set process to follow.
I think it’s better to do it in a stand alone software like sound forge or wavelab. You can normalize or even clean the tracks if needed.
You can also record a bunch of record without stopping the recording, and then cut/paste as needed.
You also need new cartridges, clean needles, a clean record, and a good TT that doesn’t change the speed. When possible it’s always better to use a record that hasn’t been played many times as friction and dirt degrade the quality very quickly.
You got a good point there, but I tend to be a lazy bum on that point. Why bother if I can get the tracks in digital format without any hassle?
lots of good tips here than you people as for the cartridges I am still using the stanton 500’s i left on the decks 13 years ago rofl! they are going to be replaced any pointers would be helpful.
I used Shure Whitelabels on my turntables, I also highly recommend any elliptical stylus Ortofon to the best sound quality, the Concorde Blue is a solid choice, as is the Nightclub series.
forgot to mention as well: make sure to reset the counterbalance on the tone arm before recording, the amount of pressure applied into the record groove does in fact make a difference.
basically twist the counterbalance weight counter-clockwise until the tonearm teeters at 180 degrees without any aid (“free floating” above the platter). from here, set the weight readout on the counterweight to 0 grams (to indicate weightlessness), then proceed to turn clockwise until you apply 2.5 grams of weight on the tonearm.
gotcha will do that, thanks for the tip m8
BUMP…great tips so far…Im looking to do the same…an additional input greatly appreciated!
Dig out the rubber mats that came with the turntables and use them (probably for the 1st time lol) while recording.
Dammit…I’ve been holding on to those goddammed things for god knows how long…and just a few weeks ago when i unpacked my decks i threw em away!
But thx I FINALLY understand their intended purpose!
Well since i trashed my rubber mats…what’s a good alternative?
Great link btw…Thanks!
so weird. The other day I was playing an old track I downloaded back in 2008. I was monitoring it and noticed it was a ripped vinyl. Long crackly intro (8 seconds till the first beat). I set my marker to the first beat in Traktor and it was consistent throughout the track. Strange ???