Pioneer EFX-1000 Mod -- Question about Sanwa OBSF-30 Button Clearance

[ryansupak]

Hi, I'm modding a Pioneer EFX-1000 to use an arcade button as a Tempo Tap button. I'm explaining the whole situation because, with DIY, very-detailed forum posts have always been a great resource for me.

(History: The Tap Button is the weak link of the unit. On half the used ones I've run across the Tap button stops "springing" mostly because the recoil mechanism is a 10 cent micro switch mounted to the main PCB, and actuated by a fragile 3mm plastic peg. To add more fun to the mix, the Tap assembly is held in alignment by two tiny, unrepairable, plastic pins about 1mm in diameter each. If either pin breaks then the whole thing becomes wonky.)

I'm removing the entire (broken) Tap assembly and wiring a Sanwa OBSF-30 in place. The first problem is that there's 28mm of depth in between the top of the EFX-1000 chassis and the PCB. As we can see from its datasheet, the OBSF-30 needs at least 32mm of clearance underneath:

http://www.in2amusements.com.au/datasheets/obsf-30.pdf

So, I'm using Front Panel Express to fabricate a Perspex "riser ring" that will both give the button the depth it needs (I'm going with a total of 37mm to be safe) and make the hole diameter correct (29.5mm in this case).

I'm using the "snap in" type of Sanwa button. According to the documentation , this button can snap into a surface anywhere between 2mm and 5mm thick. But, the total depth of my "riser ring" is 9mm. So, my idea was to make the first 3mm of the ring (the entry point the button drops down into) 29.5mm in diameter, then expand the diameter to 33.5mm, then at the end of the "tunnel", drop the diameter back down to 29.5mm.

My question is this: does the part of the button shaft just below the "locking clips" require a certain hole diameter? I can imagine a situation where insufficient diameter would "pinch" the clips shut and prevent the button's locking action from working.

If a larger hole diameter is required for the space below the "locking clips", does anybody have any idea how many millimeters of depth this diameter is required for? Unfortunately the drawing does not provide enough detail to determine that. If someone has a link to a "true datasheet" for the Sanwa buttons I'd appreciate it.

Thanks for your time -- and I'll definitely post pics once the mod is done.
rs

[ryansupak]

Sanwa OBSF-30 soldered in place as a direct replacement for original button. I used coated solid-strand jumper wire to patch it to the PCB. A little tricky to work with the SMD components and coated circuit-board but nothing good lighting and patience didn't fix.

Once the Perspex ring I designed to fit the button to the chassis comes in tomorrow I'll be able to complete it.

This exercise really instilled me with lots of respect for the Pioneer engineers. Beautiful design.

rs

[synthet1c]

I always wanted to destroy my efx1000 and make it into a midi controller for software using a hercules e2 or similar, as the interface is so well thought out, can't really bring myself to do it though as it cost me $1000 a few years back... your mod looks great though, nice work.

[ryansupak]

Man, I knew of forums with bigger attachment allowances in the late '90s...
rs

[Ryan Leo]

This is a very sick mod.

how did you go about cutting the holes?

[ryansupak]

Ryan, thanks.

I removed the stock Tap Button assembly entirely because it's a point of weakness on the unit. I used Front Panel Express (you draft it, they make it) to fabricate a Perspex ring that's a little larger than the diameter of the hole in the chassis, but the internal cutout is the right size to accommodate the button. The Perspex ring is also 4mm high to add just a touch of clearance for the button.

Attached is the Front Panel Express drafting file in case anybody else wants it. The cost is USD $14.13 in my location. That might vary by country slightly.

All in all about a $20 mod if you already have basic tools and supplies.

rs

[ryansupak]

Mod complete.

I'm not thrilled about the *appearance* of the clear Perspex. The epoxy used to fasten it to the chassis tended to give it a generally "smudgey" appearance. I'll probably find a flat enamel to paint the Perspex with. (The only reason I didn't get it in black is because Front Panel Express only offers Perspex in Clear and Red.)

In use, however, it's 100 times better than the original. The Sanwa button is just perfect for this. I did have to file some tiny plastic "nubs" off the button shaft that are not mentioned in its Datasheet. It's fine though, because it ended up making the fit perfectly snug.

I also replaced the original knobs with APEM Components knobs, which have (2x) set screws. I got turned onto these *fantastic* and affordable knobs via the new Bozak Isolator.

[Ryan Leo]

If I ever get one I'm sending it to you for this mod!

[djac100]

Hi, I was just wondering how the mod's held up? Still going strong?

I have recently ordered an arcade switch to do the same.

Can you still recommend doing the mod? Any tips?

Much appreciated.

[ryansupak]

Still holding up great, and it is heavily used on a regular basis. The perspex ring is overbuilt which I think has helped a lot. So much better than the original button. rs