How to replace tact-switch under a button for Denon DJ SC-2000?

DJ Gear & Hardware Hardware: Controllers, Mods and Gear
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How to replace tact-switch under a button for Denon DJ SC-2000?

How to replace tact-switch under a button for Denon DJ SC-2000?
Like many other people that have the issue a button isn’t responding anymore, or partly, depending where you push on a specific button, this is a guide how-to replace a so-called tact-switch, which is causing this issue.
Afterwards, your button reacts like brand-new!
Damage: 4 euro.

Tools used:

Part ordered:

Bottom-side (4 screws):

Top-side (5 screws):

Left & Right-side (2x 2 screws):

Face-side (6 screws):

Pull off the pitchfader knob:

Tilt up the unit out of its back-plate:

Flip the unit (20 screws):

Flip the unit / Pull off the rotary knobs firmly (6 knobs):

Tilt up the faceplate & unmount the nuts & bolts (6x 6 nuts/bolts):

If you did good, you end up with all the loose parts like this:

Flip the unit & unsolder the jogwheel-wire:

Flip the motherboard carefully, so the connector-cable won’t get damaged:

Unsolder the defect tact-switch, by pushing the solder-end towards 1 pin & a little screwdriver against the other side of the pin, until it lets loose:

Do this for all 4 pins:

Now solder the new tact-switch into place:
NOTE: Try if the button works after soldering, by plugging in the USB-cable & start up your DJ-software, to see if the buttons reacts.

If not, like I had here, now’s the time to delete some solder, by removing redundant solder, making the solder hot with your solder-device & quickly scrape it away with your little screw-driver.

Try it works now… If so, follow this how-to in reverse & assemble the unit. Done!

If the pics are not showing after a year orso, here’s a PDF-download of this guide:

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Unfortunately, that problem with tact-switches is well known - those original ones last only 1-2 years on heavy used buttons (OEM number 941662004200P). Only SC2000 and MC6000mk1 are affected, Denon changed switches in their later models (MC3000 and MC6000mk2).

Considering you paid 4€ for one, I assume you bought yours through Denon. You can use any 4-pin SMD type with a height of 7mm, that is a much better and cheaper option (especially if you want to, like me, to change cue 1-4, cue and play switches after 7 years of usage).

For anyone that needs it, here’s the service manual: Dropbox

PS Those older Denon models really are built like a tank, it’s such a shame there are no decksavers for the SC2000 - then we wouldn’t even need cases for gigs.

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Thanks for the add-on about considering a cheaper alternative!
Do you have a link to such 4-pin SMD type from a different brand?
Yep, bought them through a original Denon service center.

The service manual might come in handy when there’s something else to replace.
That’s what I love about brands like Denon; They just have any part in stock at their service centers.
Even after 7 years.

If there’s enough animo, I’ll create a decksaver for sale myself.
I’m about to follow a workshop ‘how-to lasercut’ mid November, and have a decksaver for the Vestax VCI-400, which I’ll take with me to show them guys, ask how I should approach this for the SC2000’s.

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Could you measure the switch? Height, width and length? Also, try to measure the force that is required to activate the switch. My guess would be either 3.3N or 2.8N. Place some weight on it (100g) add to see how much is required.

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Really appreciate this.
I’ve got a pair of these which are used with my N.I. Z2 mixer. …they’re great little units.
The play button on one of them is just starting to play up, so this has popped up at exactly the right time!
Decksavers would be nice, but you can often find dealers selling off the UDG cases quite cheaply.

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True, I bought mine - paid more for delivery than for the cases :smiley:

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Awesome, thank you. Will try to locate a source for replacement switches from a reputable manufacturers (Alps etc). There was a UK website that had OEM Denon parts and the price for switches was 1,5GBP but it’s not active anymore, shame.

PS Height must be 7mm since it’s specified in the tehnical sheet.

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This time measured digitally, so adds more up to the 7mm tech-sheet.
Perhaps they measure from top to the pins underneath.
Both times I measured without the pins.

Version 2:

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Thanks.

This model seems to fit the tehnical specs and has half a milion cycles durability :wink:
http://www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTML/Tact/SnapIn/SKHH/SKHHBWA010.html

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Nice find!
After googling that part, I can buy them for €0,21 each here… Instead of 4€ :smiley:
I think, after cutting the pins/legs to mimick the original, this should indeed do the trick.
Let me know how it worked out for you.

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Hello

Have you tried them???

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Yes, works.

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This is perfect for future as I have just got a set . So far so good one little thing I need help with if you could give me any pointers please bas curtiz

Thank you for your hard work​:+1::+1:

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I tried fixing my play and cue buttons this way. The play button went quite oké, but I think I screwed up when trying to replace the cue button. When removing the original tact switches, the metal square connections which are part of the circuit board came loose together with the switch itself. In the case of the play button only one of the four squares got loose when removing the switch. When removing the old cue switch, 3 of the 4 metal connectors came loose. Somehow I managed to fix the connection of the new play button switch. The 3 connections of the cue button seem to be impossible to connect back to the circuitboard.

For people who want to try to fix these tact switches, please be aware of this issue. I was very careful when removing the original ones. This procedure is a lot easier to perform on for example CDJ’s which have the pins of the tact switches go through the circuit board instead of connected on top of the board.

How did you guys manage to replace the switches without this happening? Do you have any ideas on how I can fix this problem with the cue button?

Thanks!