With the MF Twister coming in January, I started thinking that a way of joining MFs together might be a good idea.
It would be a simple plate of aluminum (rounded and annodized dust black) with rubber feet on the bottom. The mounting holes match the MF assembly holes, so all you need are slightly longer screws. You really wouldn’t need all 4 holes, just 2 diagonal from each other, but I was thinking about some spacers between the MF and the plate to be able to see the ground LEDs better. I guess that could be option in the mounting.
Overall length would be about 14 inches+. So about an inch shy of mixer length. There would also be an inch + space between the MF’s to accommodate a right angle USB plug.
I imagine this used with one MF above the other (a Spectra with a Twister on top), but side by side mounting would be no problem except the side buttons would be a little harder to access in the middle area. Though still accessible.
I’m sure a product design pro could come up with a more elegant solution (one with out having to screw it to the plate), but I was going for simple and easy/cheap to produce. Not that I have the where with all to get such a thing into production, but maybe DJTT would if there is enough interest. Or it could be a simple DIY project for those who want one bad enough.
What do you think? would you want/use one?
Do you see any flaws with the general concept? (ie am I missing something?)
Of course, at this point I am assuming the Twister is using the same casing as the Spectra and assembled in a similar fashion.
yes i see a flaw
what if you wanted to raise and tilt ONE MF but not the other?
If they are both mounted to the plate, they would move in tandem instead of being independant.
What i would like to see is a GOOSENECK type of plate for them
I wasn’t thinking of a 3D with this. Curious as to why you would want one tilted?
That does get me thinking that a riser to tilt the back one would be nice.
Adding a mic stand/goose neck mount to the bottom would be easy. Great idea!
oh no i dont mean TILTED and stationed in that tilted position
im talking about what you tilt or twist it to activate any motion sensors you have mapped to encoders
right now i have mine mapped so that if i have an effect running (because i pressed a button and am holding it)
when i tilt it to the back, the effect is lessend
if i tilt it towards me, the effect is greater
its like a WET / DRY setting
back is DRY
forward is WET
actually if my memory serves me correctly, when you plug in your MF3Ds they need to be on a level serface.
Because they go through a quick calibration when booted.
If they arent level and you start to use them under certain mappings, youll get some pretty not so accurate responses to their movement and placement.
The Midi Fighter Twister might look like its constructed in exactly the same way as the Spectra but underneath it actually has a large circular recess.
I plan on making a self adhesive stand mount which can be purchased and then applied to this recess to allow easy mounting to equipment stands.
I just saw VanGogo’s post - basically exactly like that circular bracket with a threaded insert and then an double sided adhesive patch applied the mating surface.
That will work for 1 MF Twister/stand, but for my original idea of having 2 MFs mounted together, does the Twister have the 4 assembly screws at the 4 corners?
Been thinking about something similar for my spectra/classic combo, but the side buttons keep biting me in the a$$…
There is one option though, rotating the MFs with side buttons in an angle of 90 degrees, so the side buttons would be facing to the top and the bottom.
(This would also imply rotating your mapping in the software, or the preset on your MIDIfighter, whatever tickles your preference.)
I even think I have some old sketches burning away in my olde Moleskine. Might dig that up if people are interested.
The first drawing was oriented sideways just to show the plate design.
However, with an inch plus in space in between the 2 MFs (for the USB plug when stacking one above another as in the pic) it should leave enough room to access the side buttons. Which is what the boxes to the right are supposed to represent. lol Although it would make it difficult for larger fingers.
You could just make that space larger as the design still wasn’t mixer length and just have optional mounting holes for different orientations. This will be a design change. Thanks for the input!
My first thought was to join a Twister and a Spectra/Classic (or 2 spectras/Classics), maybe bring them up to mixer height with optional larger feet. Then Anti added in the stand mounting (great idea!). Now a sideways option.
I do wish I could render my idea better though to get my idea across better. I’ll attempt some better drawings with the changes.
I appreciate any and all input though, as many minds are better than one (usually ) Keep it coming.
Hmmm if any one was going to DIY this what you could do is create actuators for the side buttons which allow you to press them from the top surface of the stand … if only my new 3D printer was here already …
Ok, I tried drawing up the mounting plate a little better.
This one shows the plate in both orientations with different mounting holes for either orientation, or just cut it off at the dotted line if you only want the “portrait” (stacked) orientation not the “landscape” (side by side) orientation.
I didn’t show any stand mounts, as those would be easy to add. Just drill and tap the holes for what ever mount you want. You could also bypass the rubber feet if you are only using it on a stand. You could also get larger rubber feet to raise the MF’s to exactly mixer height, or use longer feet in the back and shorter ones up front to give them an angle.
I priced aluminum plate on the web at $25.00-$30.00 USD for a 1 foot by 2 foot 3/16 inch thick 3003 aluminum. They will custom cut plate, so maybe get 2 plates for about $35-40.
The rubber feet range from $.40-$1.50/each.
The round flange mount for $5.00 or the tilting mount for $20.00
So depending on how you want to configure it cost would run from $20-$25.00 up to $50.00.
I need to shop around or see if I can get aluminum plate local cheaper.
If you want to get it annodized, the more expensive 6061 aluminum would be better, but for a DIYer painting it black, the 3003 will be fine. You could leave it bare metal and polish it for a shiny finish, or bead blast it for a textured finish.
Now all I need is a 3D, to figure out how to mount it so it could be easily removed/replaced,
and Midifidler to confirm the Twister has the same assembly screws in the corners as the other MFs.
I’ll attempt some better drawings with the changes.
