Assuming the controller in mind uses a regular linear fader (variable resistance) you can swap it for the same value rotary. It can either be 3 or 6 connections, depending if the circuit uses a mono or stereo fader. But there are controllers that use different systems. But that’s rare.
Measure the resistance of the fader and buy a similar rotary.
Beware of the space. A lot of faders are very low-profile, so the pcb is relativerly near to the faceplate. That could make it hard to fit a rotary.
Thank you Borderbas for your additional advices.
My idea is to buy for example a Korg NanoKontrol 2 and just use the PCB.
I want to unsolder all the pots and buttons to use everything in a new case (and re-solder everything with cables).
So I can have all the space I need
The bcr is a great controller, but most of it’s controls are encoders, not normal potentiometers, they will react differently, and it might possibly be a pain in the ass. As well as having small solder point too, the same as the nano (more or less).
The nano (mk2) is a good idea, but you will need some soldering (actually desoldering) skills, because it’s true that all the components are small. However, bang for the buck wise, it has a lot of controls, potentiometers (10k very common), buttons, and leds. Plus it comes with an editor that can save you time, and keeps the set up (once done) in the nano’s memory.
Plus it you f’''k it up, it’s a 50 eur. piece of equipement.
hello oneapemob,
thank you for your detailed reply.
You are right, the BCR doesnt have the normal pots I need.
So, I give it up.
Now, I think the best way for my project would be starting from scratch.
The problem is I am a true newbie (but not stupid), so it will be a long quest.
There are many USB card with Midi. Many people talk about Arduino.
Is it a not-so-difficult way for a newbie to make his own midi USB controller ?
what do you think about it ?
Have a look at buying an M-Audio Session pro, I’ve used one successfully before and so have many others. If you can get your hands on a second hand one you’d be laughing.
Hi oneapemob !
I just bought a NanoKontrol 2.
Yes it’s cheap (45 € in France) and I went to the electronic components store directly to buy new pots (Korg’s ones are very cheap and fragile).
We tested the rotary pots and the linear faders with the guy and … surprise : they are all 250 ohm (far from the 10K…), so he gave me 470 ohm pots and told me that the only trouble is that with these new pots Traktor’s values will be at 100% before the pots are at their max…
** EDIT : I think I made a mistake with the ohms… the pots I bought are 5K and work fine **
I will try tonite or this week end and let you know.
By the way, I strongly think that Arduino will be the best for me to create my definitive and big mixer/controller.
Arduino Uno Rev3 are now directly recognized as a HID usb component…
Thank you all for your advices, I will let you know here about my works.
You’ll have the possibility to go around (more or less) the fact that the value gets to 100 (or 127 in midi) before the top by using the mapping options in traktor. Usually the important thing is to have some linear pots (not audio), because of the voltage curve.
Update : I unsoldered the rotary pots of the Nanokontrol 2 → these are 5K pots and not 10k pots. So everything is fine with my new pots. I let you know as soon as all my pots are soldered.
Actually I soldered one to test, and everything is fine.
