I got my set of korg nano controllers a few days ago and after seeing this post, I realized the enormous potential in these tiny plastic things. So I say lets put our heads together and come up with something decent.
Now, first thing: has anybody taken theirs apart? It would be nice to see what we’re dealing with before starting the design. And although I want to see the inside of a nano, I wouldn’t want to take mine apart just yet, so I thought maybe one of you have already and maybe even taken some pictures.
If nobody did, I am willing to be the first, but before I destroy my shiny new controllers, I thought I’d ask if someone has already taken theirs apart.
So yeah, let’s get started, any no idea is too dumb, just write your thoughts down!
I took apart my nanokontrol the first day i got it. I’ve always been a big fan of the hacker motto, “If you can’t open it, you don’t own it”. I didn’t take any pictures though. It’s a pretty straight forward device, everything is pcb mounted, and the conductive rubber button pads are in pairs of 2, except the transport and “scene” buttons are all one piece.
I’m not sure what you’re wanting to do with it, but it’s a pretty simple device, and i’ve found to be pretty useful just the way it is.
From what I saw, you’re pretty much right about the fact that it’s pretty simple. There’s not much that can be done to the KONTROL without pretty major surgery and the effort is simply not worth it, because you’d be better off starting from scratch.
The nanoKey was even worse. The only thing I could remove was the little lid in the top left corner that reveled the pcb.
The nanoPad, however could be improved a little bit. With an hours work, the pads could be changed to arcade buttons, making fast triggers easier. And while you’re at it, you can combine it with the Kontrol in a nice new case with a custom layout. Maybe even add the nanoKey. I’ll try to figure out some kinda layout. I’ll post it as soon as I’m done with it. I know it will never be a VCI-100, but this is the closest I’ll get to it for a while. I’m pretty tight with cash at the moment. That’s why I’m trying to get the most of what I’ve got
My only concern is that copper thing on the back. It didn’t see anything connected to it. What does it do?
Not sure what is up with the copper strip. But i have to say that i’m disappointed with Korg’s piss poor soldering job on it. Come on, i could have done better than that when i was 12 with the $7 radio shack iron that i had at the time.
Yeah I couldn’t agree more about the soldering.
I attached a very simple starting point, just to get the discussion started. I apologize for the photoshop skills but I drew it on paper and didn’t have time to do it nicely in photoshop. Some of us have day jobs, you know
Oh yeah, I haven’t thought of that. But I don’t think I’ll be using the pads to make music from scratch. If i do need to, I have the keyboard to do that. (and I couldn’t find any pressure sensitive buttons as parts for sale)
I started to look at how to put this idea into reality. My main concern is the case. I have no idea about what material to use. I’m not really keen to make a wooden case, but I can’t think of anything else. Any ideas?
Also, where do people make those professional looking labels for theirs mods?
Can you humor me and tell me if you can read any of the numbers on those chips? I have a bet with someone the big square one is an Atmel AT90USB, and I’m guessing the larger rectangular one is a 74LS674.
Sure buddy, no problem!
The big square one is an Atmel Atmega32 16AU 0828D (or something like that)
The larger rectangular one is the PDIUSBD12, if that makes any sense. Those letters are REALLY small. Sorry it’s not what you thought it is.
About the material for the case, I thought about plexiglass, so you can see all the PCB’s and chips and stuff. Maybe put some LED’s in there… All I’m waiting for right now is my paycheck I still need to figure out how to combine the non see-through parts with the see-through ones. As soon as I figure that out and get my paycheck, I’ll order the parts.
If anybody has some ideas or suggestions, it doesn’t matter if it’s good or bad, just write them down. I need all the help I need. This is the biggest modding I’ve done so far.
The USB port: either each controller has to be plugged in individually on the side, which renders the whole mod useless. I thought about extending the port with cables, but because the soldering points are so tiny, it would be impossible to do. Having usb cables inside the box would mean an increase of about 2.5-2 inches in the width of the case, making it really bulky. I tried to ask RonBurgundy, but he didn’t reply.
The pads are pressure sensitive and I’m not sure if replacing them with simple buttons. I checked the wiring again and I could only see 2 cables coming from each pad. Which makes no sense at all. Could someone who knows more about this stuff help me out? Fatlimey, you seem to know quite a lot about this stuff, what’s your opinion?
Sorry to bring this thread up, but I have a bit of a problem with my nanoKontrol. It’s actually not mine and I borrowed it from a friend, and I had to move recently. So when I packed the controller, I left the USB cable plugged into the Kontrol and wrapped the rest of it around the device. Needless to say, during the move, the microUSB port got bent (as well as the cable itself), and now isn’t working. I was wondering if anybody could give me the instructions on taking it apart? I have a feeling that the port needs to be either resoldered or just replaced…
taking it apart is easy,just put off the little rubber feet and you`ll see the screws
resoldering the USB port will require some skill if you don’t want to damage the PCB though, there is a little thread on modding arcade x box controllers where BC ninja has uploaded some photos and tips that show how it’s done, but really you should have some basic soldering skills.
Would endless encoders work in the place of the regular rotaries on a nano … 9 endless would be a whole lot more practical for me
I’m considering a case mod as well to group the buttons better for clip triggering .. either Plexi or metal sheet and replace the faders with half decent Alps ones .. hmmm
@Continentalrocket , just open up an small USB-hub , place the PCB with the mounted USB ports on the inside of the case and connect your devices to it ! Then you only have the wire of the USB hub come out of your case and simply to stick that to ur Laptop/Mac whateva!
! Then you only have the wire of the USB hub come out of your case and simply to stick that to ur Laptop/Mac whateva!