With that setup, watch out that you don’t blow your speakers. If your amp’s power consumption is 130W, that means that it will push out max 65W per side (I think - certainly not the 300W that each speaker can take).
If you start to push the amp toward & beyond clipping, then you will end up with square waveforms, where the amp can not power the ‘peaks’ of the sound/waveform. Like this:

This, in turn means that your speakers will not move in a nice smooth (sinusoidal) action, but rather the clipped waveform will hold the speaker at it’s maximum/minimum points for a while (for the whole time that your waveform/output is being clipped).
This results in your drivers heating up as they are not operating normally, and end result is blown speakers. 
Clipping will not only put your speakers in danger, but your ears too. The audio will start to sound awful (the more you clip, the worse it will sound)… there is a discussion somewhere else on DJTT about this and the damage to your ears that distorted audio can cause.
From what you have said tho’, you are already driving the speakers whilst the amp is clipping. This is probably why the treble is getting louder whilst the bass is not - treble takes a whole lotta less power than bass. You’ve probably hit the limit of what the amp can push out bass-wise and so the bass is clipping more and more. Increasing the volume just clips the bass. As the treble takes less power, the amp still has headroom to provide more amplification for the high notes.
Also, what are your impedances on the speakers and what is the recommended impedance(s) of the amp? If the speakers impedance is lower than the amp’s recommended impedance(s), your speakers are not providing enough resistance, and your amp will overheat (and possibly die). If the speakers have higher impedance than the amp, then you have a ‘mismatched’ system and you won’t be getting the best performance out of the amp (many people run systems like this though, it’s not a biggie, you’ll just loose some volume :eek
PA speakers impedances are usually lower than home stereo speakers (PA often 4 Ω, home speakers often 8 Ω - and the amp may only drive 8 Ω+ loads)
Next time you use the system, I would keep checking the temps of the tweeter driver (you may have to partly dismantle speaker to get to it tho
!), the woofer driver (not as important - woofers only get blown by overpowering speakers, not underpowering) and the amp. If any of them are getting hot (hot, not warm!) then I’d be worried that you are causing damage… allow this to continue, and you’ll be forced into buying a new amp or speakers.
Your amp really doesn’t sound ('scuse the pun!) like it’s going to do your speakers any favours - invest some of your hard earned into a 300W+300W stereo amp - make sure it can deliver this power into your speakers impedance (e.g. 300W+300W into 8 Ω
. Your amp should be 1.5x - 2x the speakers RMS power rating per channel). If you do blow your tweeter, you’ll have to buy a new amp at the same time to avoid blowing it again - buy one now and you’ll avoid the cost of a new tweeter - and you’ll have more volume to play with… mmmmmm… more SPLs! 
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news! I may be wrong (& often am!) - the whole of this is based on the fact that the amp draws 130W, so is unable to push out more than this (e.g. my 800W PA is rated at 1kW). If this assumption is wrong, then you can ignore me!
Can’t help feeling that you need MORE POWER tho!!! Cheap amps can be picked up on ebay for very little - and unless you want to spend megabucks, an amp is an amp is an amp!
Using your amp when it isn’t clipping is fine. If you have a clip light on the amp USE IT - it can come on now and then, but not on every bass beat!
Alternatively, it could be a loose wire or a crappy sound card (!) 
Sorry if this sounds gloomy - just trying to save you the cost of a blown speaker (by spending more money on a new amp - go figure!
slight_smile:
Happy to help if you need any more info.
ₒ ᴑ O (Phew, that post took a while!)
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