Got two technic 1200 mk2 (used), new rane ttm56s, shure m447 carts. When I scratch I get the needles jumping at times. I always keep the anti skate at 0 but turn the little round thing underneath the tonearm to 2.5 or 3. I have tried 0 also. I’ve followed various tutorials online and youtube. Its hard to do intensive scratching because the needles skips just a little. I’ve calibrated the tonearm several times. Should I replace both Tonearms with a new one? Five months ago I got new rcas and cables replaced on both turntables. These needles are fairly new. I’ve cleaned them off also. Maybe the records I’m using are just fairly scratched up or warped? Any suggestions is appreciated.
The tonearm should be close to parallel with the record. I think about 3.5" is considered a rather standard height for most tonearm/cart combos. This is a pretty good tutorial for setting up your tonearm:
If you are using the correct height and weight settings (which it sounds like you are), then the most likely culprit is the vinyl you are using.
If the vinyl is warped, then pressing down on one side of the vinyl can cause the opposite side (where the needle meets the record) to jump, therefore causing the record to skip (a seesaw effect of sorts).
If the vinyl is old the grooves may have a bunch of crap in them causing the needle to not seat itself in the grooves properly.
Also, check the center hole of the vinyl. If the hole has become stretched or expanded, then there is extra space between the vinyl and the pin that the vinyl is seated around (sorry for my shoddy glossary/explanation), and the record can shift and skip grooves as you are scratching. See this video for a better description and recommended solution:
Yeah tried this one record it seemed tight and it skipped very little. Its like I have to be extra gentle when I scratch. Maybe I’m pressing too hard? Either or I’ve calibrated my tonearm testing four different ways. It still skips… It sucks, just paid $700 on a Rane ttm56s. Oh well though…
Nicardraus do you have any thing like a car “tune-up” kind a thing for 1200’s? I’m in Maryland and might send one turntable at a time for you just too look at. Your a dj to, so you understand. Thanks for your replys
I bet this is why. Unless you’re using Vestax PDX decks (you can jump up and down on 'em before they’ll skip!) you need a super light touch for scratching.
You have to literally use the pads of your fingers to hold the record, with next to NO downwards pressure. Just the friction between your fingers and the record. This is why it’s important to keep your records dust free, and the reason you see scratch DJ’s licking their fingers.
Yes I’m a DJ and I also specialize in Technics SL1200/1210 turntables. I would love to help you out but unfortunately, I live outside the US. Manila to be exact so my country is on the other side of the globe.
i had this problem with the pair of (well-used) techs i bought. the guy who taught me had a guy who did all his service who came in and looked at em for me. For me, one of the tonearms needs to be replaced, but if I take the needle and sort of twist it back (relative to the headshell) so that the needle points a little more towards the pitch fader, it catches the record a little better and they’re usable. hopefully that makes sense. this is what the guy did for me b/c I couldn’t afford a new tonearm; the platter also needed to be replaced. I think it’s wears out the record a little faster though. should probably get that tonearm replaced
check the needle to make sure it is CLEAN and undamaged. I always set anti-skate on max, the purpose of anti-skate is to keep the tonearm from skating across the record during playback.
It’s also good to make sure the tone-arm weight is set correctly. I always set mine on 2.5+ grams. This is a counter weight so less then 2.5 while scratching in my experience will cause some needle jumping.
Now, If these are brand NEW carts you need to just play records for a good minute until the needle settles well with that ttable. My carts always skip like crazy when I have a new stylus…but it eventually works just fine
I’m using the Native Instruments DJ Q Bert Butter rugs. I’m going to press a little lighter when scratching. Also, how would I know the tonearm is the problem for the turntables? I might just buy two new tonearms. Get those replaced. Later on, I will just send them to a shop to get a “tune-up” kind of thing for my wheels. These maintenance costs are killing me. Thanks for your help guys.
The only time you need to change a platter is/are when:
-the magnet has been cracked or chipped.
-the actual platter has been damaged severely.
-the center hole has been damaged and makes the platter wobble and unstable.
But if none of these symptoms are showing any signs, then there is no need to replace the platter. If this is what the guy told you, then he doesn’t know shit about 1200s.
Also, if the bearings in your tonearm are fine and the pivot bridges, screws and arm itself is not damaged, then there is no need to replace the tonearm. All it needs is proper calibration.
Nicha how do you recalibrate the tonearm? I moved the wheel barring thing to 2 instead of 2.5. Is their a way to test to see if its the tonearm? Also, I touched the vinyl a little bit lighter and it seems a little better. My antiskate is 0 and wheel thingy to 3. So I guess I should have it recalibrated the tonearm by a service guy.? Then if all else fails a new tonearm ya think? Also, is it a bad idea to have a 1200 custom painted or should I go for a chrome cover plate or skin. Thanks for all of your help guys.
oh the magnet was cracked. was just mentioning cuz it wouldn’t have cost much for him to just move the needle in the headshell and calibrate the tonearm. didn’t wanna look like a total bum
Recalibrating needs cleaning the bearings free from corrosion, lubricating the bearings and adjusting the pivot screws to the right tightness. Weight balance will always depend on your headshell, cartridge and needle. Same adjustment will vary on the tonearm height. If the tonearm is calibrated to factory setting, then the anti-skate should only be set to zero unless the record’s grooves are unusually “loose”, meaning they have wider grooves that the needles wobble sideways when they glide, then that’s the only time that you adjust the anti-skate.
Repainting the 1200s is no problem as long as the proper disassembling and assembling is done. Plus putting the tonearm back together and calibrating them, pitch control calibration, brake adjustment, de-soldering and soldering tiny wires, etc. Not to discourage you but putting the height ring adjuster is very tricky. There are six way to put it back but only one is right. I also wouldn’t suggest using the faceplate covers because it only tends to scratch on the base frame and flushes the buttons lower. Also, it’s a complete waste of money.
If you are new to scratching then the most likely reason you are skipping is your touch.
Antiskate pulls the needle left or right depending on where its set… to properly adjust it you need to take the needle off your cartridge then set the cartridge on your slip mat, turn the dial and your tone arm should move left or right (again depending on which way you turn it) you want to set it in the position where the tonearm no longer pulls in either direction.
All that being said, I think you just need to practice. You could check out another persons tables to see if you skip on theirs too… if you do you can confirm that its not the table.
i thought i read the anti skate was supposed to be set at the same setting as the amount of weight you are using? for example if you set your counter balance to three grams you should set the anti skate to three…
