Ever since I bought my M-Audio Xponent a few years ago I’ve never been happy with the layout.
Don’t get me wrong there are tons of buttons and knobs on it but for me most are either too small or in the wrong place. I don’t fancy splashing out on a new controller (with more buttons and knobs in the wrong place) so I have decided to build my own using the Xponent as the brains and rearranging every button and knob just where I want them.
Another thing I’ve never liked about the Xponent is the jog wheels. I’ve had nothing but problems with them so I will make some new ones.
OK let’s get this project started…
I’m going to build the mixer section first. I will use MDF to start off with because it is cheap and easy to work with. After some thorough testing and when I’m completely happy with the layout I will replace the MDF with some acrylic Perspex for that final finish.
Here is the design I’m going with for the mixer section.
The first step was to print out a full size template of the mixer section and stick it on to some 4mm MDF
I used a dart to mark and prep each hole ready for drilling.
Next I scored and then cut along the outsides of the template with a stanley knife.
I used a forstner drill bit to cut the holes for the arcade buttons.
Here’s what it looks like so far with the buttons in
[quote]Hey nice dude! Can’t wait to see this project unfold.
(boy that’s a tall controller) [/quote]
Thanks
The mixer section is the exact same dimensions as the Pioneer DJM-909
Also I’m sick of tiny controllers with no space around any of the buttons and knobs
It’s a man sized controller
Yes It’s all midi. This mixer section is just the first stage of the controller.
Next up will be the deck sections.
I say go for it
Thanks … Yes got to love MDF for prototyping. It’s cheap and if somethings not quite right I just cut another one but like I said before once I’m happy with the feel of the design I will cut the faceplate in acrylic perspex.
Because I’m using 4mm MDF at this stage of the project (final finish will be 3mm acrylic perspex) I had to countersink the holes on the back to let the led’s poke through the right amount. I used a depth stop attatched to the drill bit to ensure all holes were the same.
Next up making a jig to cut the slots for the faders.
Hell yeah, man! I have an unhealthy amount of internet history on your last project. This one should turn out well too. Can’t wait to see the progress!
Just fitted the faders. Slots cut out using a 3.2mm straight router bit and a custom made jig. I will be replacing the Xponent fader caps at a later date.
Faders held in place with M3 countersunk screws.
When cutting out the slots I made the length of the cut the same size as the opening on the fader. After fitting I realized that a could have made it a few mm shorter because the fader stem doesn’t travel right to the end of the slot.
I know It might sound petty but little things like that really annoy me.
This is why I’m using MDF first and will correct this in the final build.
How are you planning to cut the acrylic? I never enjoyed doing that stuff by hand, it just never fucking worked. Do you have access to a cadcam laser cutter thingy?
I did all the electrical bits for a midi mixer - built the midibox cores, wired everything up in a mdf box, leds, pots, encoders etc.. Wrote the code for it.
But my joinery skills are none-existant so never got round to making a pretty box for it. I wanted a nice oak case and metal face-plate like one of the livid controllers.
I thought I would have a practice at cutting some acrylic perspex today. I needed to have an idea how easy or hard it would be before buying some larger sheets for my Midi Controller Project. I’m pleased to say it all went smoothly.
I corrected the issue with the fader slots that i mentioned yesterday by reducing the length of the jig.
After coming up with 3 designs in corel draw I started by making this one first. (by the way that’s a fly sitting on the perspex in the first shot )
I was thinking this would be used in the vertical position with the crossfader at the bottom. The bank of 16 buttons above could be mapped to transport functions, cue points and various effects. The two red buttons I would map to deck select and the knobs would control the gain for each channel.
I won’t be using this glossy perspex for my main project I will use frosted acrylic instead.
Finished in a solid oak case this project would look the buisness (shame I have no intention of finishing it)
you’ve got a really good eye for detail and finish mate… the prototypes look excellent!
can you show us some pictures of the tools you use to cut the plastic and wood? particularly the router/drill you use and the router bits. Maybe a video of you cutting some of the holes? Don’t think anyone’s done a build log like that yet…
